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SilverSurfer

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First one at one mile, 2nd at two miles, 3rd at 4 miles.….lol…

I always do first between 800 and 1200 miles, depending on when I can get it to the dealer. Next one at 5k, and every 5k afterwards.

You have to be dedicated to do that on a Toyota, but I’m also doing it on my Land Rover with oil services that cost 4x more…so you know I really believe it’s that important early in an engine’s life. in fact, I just Did the 3rd oil change on my Defender at 9215 miles.
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Tristan2020

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Thanks for the write up, I just did my second oil change at 5k. Definitely still saw some bits of metal debris in the oil but nothing too crazy. Didn’t run an analysis on it.

Flexible funnel seems like a great solution, I have an aftermarket skid plate installed and tried the oil change without dropping it, ended up with a huge mess….hopefully I can get that funnel in there to channel the oil where I want it to go next time. Learning experience I guess
 

kasinecbe

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TOTALLY AGREE! Is it worth saving ~$45 to wait until the free oil change from Toyota? Nobody is likely to have any issues for 100-150k miles but what about after that? I don't wanna sound like a conspiracy theorist, but when all those leases are returned for sale, and the folks leasing them followed this schedule, what does Toyota care?? Those vehicles are all out of warranty unless somebody purchases an extended warranty. I firmly believe in the durability and toughness of this engine, so I'd like to think that, regardless of a little bit of negligence will still result in million mile motors, but white chance it? These trucks are expensive and most everyone on here as far as I know want them to last for at least 10+ years. What's the extra 40 bucks all about?
If you ask your service advisor, you can use the 10k paid oil change whenever you want. They just have to annotate the customer requested. I used mine at 2k miles.
 

MustardTiger

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Excellent post. Disappointed to see debris in the filter. These engines are supposed to be broken in from the factory. I don't car what anyone says....metal debris in the filter is not normal. Maybe in like a utility engine from Harbor Freight...not a Toyota engine!
 

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Miqie

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Excellent post. Disappointed to see debris in the filter. These engines are supposed to be broken in from the factory. I don't car what anyone says....metal debris in the filter is not normal. Maybe in like a utility engine from Harbor Freight...not a Toyota engine!
I don't know of any manufacturer (maybe some exotics) that break the engine in before delivery. In most mass produced vehicles, the first time the engine is started, other than on the test stand, is at the end of the assembly line at final inspection. Then it's driven to the lot awaiting the transport trucks. No oil change occurs.
 
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Gerbear

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Thanks that's an awesome writeup! I'm also in the camp of changing the oil at 1000 miles when new, and every 5000 miles afterwards. That compared to so many out there that say oil is much better nowadays compared to 20 years ago. Two points, first is that a new engine will always have some break in debris so change oil and filter at 1000 miles or less, and secondly it doesn't matter how good the oil is nowadays, DIRT IS DIRT so change it every at least every 5000 miles afterwards!
 

trailhunger

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Doing my first oil change at 5K when they rotate tires and Toyota Care does an inspection. I really like my Goose Gear rear delete and pretty sure I need to swap back to the OE rear seats for the multi-point inspection to go smoothly.

OEM filter doing its job. But how do you know for sure cutting the casing didn't expose the pleats to debris...
 

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TheGreatWhiteNorth

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Unless you're rocking a 6MT, the tranny's are sealed- zero maintenance theoretically
There sure is. There is a drain and fill procedure. The worst thing to ever do is never change the oil on your trans. Ive done it tons of time on my third gen. Its roughly the same process on the 4th gen. Instead of a dipstick, theres a temperature dependent internal level check.

I've posted the procedure from the 4th gen service manual on this forum a short while ago, for all to use.

Somewhere around 60,000 miles, i'll schedule with the dealer to do a full flush. They have a special machine for that. Then after, i drain and fill every second or so oil change. Its usually 3 or so quarts with the 3rd gen. We'll find out with this trans the first time around.
 

maxx075

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There sure is. There is a drain and fill procedure. The worst thing to ever do is never change the oil on your trans. Ive done it tons of time on my third gen. Its roughly the same process on the 4th gen. Instead of a dipstick, theres a temperature dependent internal level check.

I've posted the procedure from the 4th gen service manual on this forum a short while ago, for all to use.

Somewhere around 60,000 miles, i'll schedule with the dealer to do a full flush. They have a special machine for that. Then after, i drain and fill every second or so oil change. Its usually 3 or so quarts with the 3rd gen. We'll find out with this trans the first time around.
I've heard a flush is worse than a drain and refill. They're essentially just running any potential debris through the system at pressure. With the issues with the casting debris I'm not sure I'd go that route. Just some random strangers opinion though.
 

TheGreatWhiteNorth

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I've heard a flush is worse than a drain and refill. They're essentially just running any potential debris through the system at pressure. With the issues with the casting debris I'm not sure I'd go that route. Just some random strangers opinion though.
Welp, Ya heard wrong :) With that theory, you would WANT to get the debris out. The fluids are constantly circulating through the transmission, as would any potential debris. In reality, the suction portion in the sump has a very fine mesh screen that should capture anything large. Also, the issue with the machining debris is long gone, especially with my build date.

Heres how they do it, brother: They remove the lines going in and out of the trans cooler and connect them to the machine. The line going in the machine has the old fluid. The line going out and back into the trans is connected to clean new fluid. The machine has a flow control that measures the fluid coming in, and adds the same amount going out. Its not under pressure, and it uses the transmissions own pump pressure to make the transfer.

When you drain and fill yourself. Youre constantly refreshing a portion of the fluid. Lets say the full trans takes 12 or so quarts. When you drain and fill youre diluting the old fluid with three or so new quarts. My 3rd gen with 300,000 miles had perfectly pink trans fluid.

Dont have to do what i do...but there are zero negatives, only positives.
 

trailhunger

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There sure is. There is a drain and fill procedure. The worst thing to ever do is never change the oil on your trans. Ive done it tons of time on my third gen. Its roughly the same process on the 4th gen. Instead of a dipstick, theres a temperature dependent internal level check.

I've posted the procedure from the 4th gen service manual on this forum a short while ago, for all to use.

Somewhere around 60,000 miles, i'll schedule with the dealer to do a full flush. They have a special machine for that. Then after, i drain and fill every second or so oil change. Its usually 3 or so quarts with the 3rd gen. We'll find out with this trans the first time around.
I mean....My 2001 Dodge Ram has NEVER had a tranny flush or fluid change. 300K+, fluid is neon pink. Shifts like a dream. Everything else around the rig has fallen apart or rusted. Dicking around with transmission fluid will be the last thing I do in life.
 

TheGreatWhiteNorth

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I mean....My 2001 Dodge Ram has NEVER had a tranny flush or fluid change. 300K+, fluid is neon pink. Shifts like a dream. Everything else around the rig is fallen apart or rusted. Dicking around with transmission fluid will be the last thing I do in life.
So dont do it then. :)
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