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I had that thought too, since carrier bearing spacers are commonly needed after rear lifts. When I loaded 500lb of crap in the bed of my truck, the suspension squatted ~1.5" from stock. The driveshaft angle of the rest half was now slightly up from perfectly in line with the front half. The...

Damn. Do you think the issue is inherent to the 2pc Spicer driveshafts that come on long bed trucks?

Since I'm dealing with a new vibration on my truck as well... Did anyone ever have success getting their dealership, or Corporate Toyota, to fix this? @Reptar - you got a new driveshaft, but did it also vibrate right away? Or gradually? I'll try that driveshaft camera test this weekend to see...

I skipped the exhaust dump as well, because of exhaust intrusion into the cab (especially when the rear window is open). It's a valid issue. I've also read about instances of exhaust heat scorching the rear axle.

Negative. You need to change one of the three screens to have a specific tire pressure display.

I tried pulling my negative battery terminal this morning for 30+ minutes, just to see what would happen. Maybe with all the electronics something would reset. No change. Blah.

Do you have the tire pressure screen showing on your gauge display? There's a graphic of the truck with four "psi" fields.

This is a benefit - it's less likely to unseat a bead at lower pressure, since the tire is naturally pulling the sidewall out into the bead lip. We used to do this back in the day on our cheap redneck wheeling trucks by running 12.5" wide tires on 8" wide steel wagon wheels.

With a stretched tire setup, the wheel itself is wider than the tire. Like this: (Yes, it's a silly stance car thing and it drives like crap) The "poke" in that kind of setup is the actual wheel, not the tire - so when the wheel gets wider, it pokes out more.

Nice job! That was a quick solution.

I'm being pedantic here, but for the sake of accuracy... You removed the plastic "cowl cover", and we're now looking at the cowl itself. The cowl is the metal body piece that is permanently attached to the cab. At each end of the cowl, there is a drain gap where the fenders attach. Critters...

I keep getting survey requests, and I'm holding off on submitting any surveys or reviews. I'm keeping those in my back pocket for later use if I need to.

Yeah, definitely try testing it with different conditions (4wd, neutral, etc) to see what does and does not affect the symptoms. Toyota is being weird these days about warranty issues. They seem very hesitant to admit that anything is wrong, and will point to anything else possible. I tested my...

I appreciate the details about your situation - it sounds very similar to mine. The more we share about this, the more information we will all have, and MAYBE one of us will find a real solution that can help others too. I have spent the last month inspecting and testing and playing with the...

Negative. I'm talking about the drain holes in the metal body cowl itself. To see them, you need to remove that plastic cowl cover. They aren't necessarily round drilled "holes", more like gaps at the ends of the cowl for drainage.

True, it's possible to add a handle anywhere to anything. But this company decided they don't want to. Sounds like a business opportunity for you. 😎 I agree that the 4th Gen Taco could use real grab handles on both sides. I might add soft handles like others have done - that seems to be the...

My guess - up through the cowl drain holes. The cabin air intake is in the cowl, which is a metal trough that is covered by the plastic trim piece with the intake vent holes. At each end of the cowl, there is a gap where the fender attaches which allows water to drain down behind the fender...

I used to MTB a ton before I got my 4th Gen. But I got tired of the "which and plummet" riding in my area, with 30-45min gravel road grinds just to get back to the top. Maybe I should have bought an e-bike. I only kept my Chromag hardtail, and I ride Enduro and trials motorcycles more than...

Depends on the tire. But let's talk about the Falken AT4W (my favorite AT). Attached is the spec sheet. An LT315/70R17 AT4W allows for a wheel width range of 8.0" - 11.0", and that size was designed for a 9.5" wheel. So an 8.5" wheel would work, but just barely. The sidewalls will angle...

For sure. I'm just saying that with a "stretched" tire setup, where the wheel is wider than the tire, increasing width and keeping the same offset will give a bit more poke (half of the width increase).