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That's an OEM net from his 4runner. Our RAV4 came with a smaller version of the same thing.

No, this is a bad idea. Bed bolts are Torque To Yield AKA stretch bolts. Once removed, they need to be trashed and replaced with new bolts. Reusing them WILL cause them to loosen over time and in this case it will cause bed rattles.

Yep. Easy peasy. Get a quality relay harness with a socket, and a quality brand name relay (not some cheap China junk), and you can just use butt connectors between the relay harness, aux plug, ground wire to a bolt in the engine bay (a bracket on the inner fender works well), and a power wire...

The owner's manual lists the current capacity of each Aux Switch circuit. I would stay under 80% of that value. If you want to use that switch for more current, use the Aux Switch circuit to actuate a relay that is fed straight from the battery.

I've always had sliders on my trucks, but went with the OEM TRD Cast Aluminum Running Boards for my new long bed Taco. They are great as running boards and don't hang any lower than good sliders (visual priority for me). I'm staunchly against wheeling this truck, so I didn't want the thought of...

Mileage will suffer, because all it's doing is simulating your foot pushing the gas pedal farther/quicker than it actually is. Which can also be done by... Pushing the gas pedal farther or quicker with your foot.

Ah, you're trying to reduce power. Have you tried putting the truck in Eco Mode? That will do more than any pedal controller - pedal response, shift points, and boost curves. All that any pedal controller can do is electronically replicate moving the pedal more/less, or faster/slower (which can...

Unfortunately, I'm 99% sure there is no tailgate solution that doesn't involve restoring 12V power. Everything is the mechanism is electronic and would need to be accessed from inside the bed by disassembling the tailgate panel. I also wouldn't carry a booster pack in the bed though due to PNW...

Use PayPal Goods And Services for sure, and use a credit card where you have a long account history and good customer service in case you need to dispute the transaction. Then you'll have two layers of protection, as will the seller. If the seller is shipping the suspension, it's in their best...

Serious question..... Why? Just put it in Sport Mode. It alters the pedal response, boost curves, shift points, and more.

The Tech has no idea how the ECU is tuned by Toyota engineers. And it's already been proven the the ECU will adjust for 91/92 octane fuel (likely with timing advance, but could be more parameters too). It's a proven power increase. And if Toyota ECU programming does it stock, it's perfectly...

You're in Canada, right? (I saw Km on your display). Maybe this is a Canada thing? Did you turn off ALL of the PDA functions? Others seem to have no problem turning everything off on their 2025. Either your truck is different than everyone else, or you're doing something different.

Huh? I went in my settings through the gauge cluster and turned it off, along with all the PDA Proactive Driving Assist functions. It has stayed off for months.

There's probably paint in the hole. You definitely DON'T want to tap that hole... It will cut away some metal with the paint. You need a thread chaser.

Your truck has DRLs. They all do. Most are the headlights running at a reduced brightness. But if you want your lights always on full brightness, just leave the headlight switch in the ON position. They will turn off automatically after a minute once you lock the car, or you can push the lock...

Just turn off DRLs in the settings if you don't want them on. The light sensor affects quite a few things.

Climbing a curb is not an effective 4wd high test. There's no need to try that. Drive somewhere that has dirt or gravel. You shouldn't be engaging 4wd on concrete/asphalt anyway.

That's badass! Perfect stance for 35s.

I'm now 97.6% sure it's the clutch switch. The ECU receives the signal from that switch to perform the rev matching, and without the signal the ECU no longer knows that you are shifting. Pull the under-dash panel and look at the clutch pedal bracket. Find the switch and wiring. Make sure all...

Gotcha. If the only thing you did was pop out a switch blank, and then put in the knob but didn't plug it in, it's either one of two situations: You accidentally knocked something loose or disconnected something. This seems most likely. The clutch pedal has a switch on it to detect when it is...