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Depends on the tire. But let's talk about the Falken AT4W (my favorite AT). Attached is the spec sheet. An LT315/70R17 AT4W allows for a wheel width range of 8.0" - 11.0", and that size was designed for a 9.5" wheel. So an 8.5" wheel would work, but just barely. The sidewalls will angle...

For sure. I'm just saying that with a "stretched" tire setup, where the wheel is wider than the tire, increasing width and keeping the same offset will give a bit more poke (half of the width increase).

When wheel width is increased and offset stays the same, half of the width change is on the inside of the wheel and half is on the outside of the wheel. But on trucks like ours, the tire is always wider than the wheel. So the wheel may get wider, but the tire stays in the exact same place...

Not normal behavior, but these transmissions are proving to be weird and have some issues. (I'm dealing with a different issue) A few tests you can try: Shift the truck manually with the shift lever in "S" mode; Put the truck in SPORT mode; Put the truck in ECO mode; Put the truck in TOW/HAUL...

"Poke" is created by tire width and the offset of the wheel. Wheel width does not have any impact on "poke".

Every tire model and size has a specified wheel width range, per the manufacturer. Running a wheel on the wider side of that range can give a bit better road handling, at the expense of offroad performance (especially when aired down). Vice-versa for a narrower wheel.

Yep. This 100%. If this was for, say, medical expenses for someone we know on the forum? Cool. But a church trip that's completely optional, and that you can pay for yourself? No way.

I agree that these engines can have a "chugging" feel at very low RPMs. I noticed it on my truck too, and switching to 92 octane helped. My issue persists even when the truck is coasting downhill, and I shift the trans into neutral. I think that eliminates the engine as a cause (in this...

I called Corporate Toyota back and the case is escalated. No matter what happens, I'm not willing to live with the truck as it is. I didn't pay $50k to drive something that feels worse than every $2k beater truck I've ever owned.

I have a case open with Corporate Toyota, and I'm calling them in a bit. We'll see what they have to say.

Update: so far, the dealership is saying that this is "normal" for Tacomas and they can't do anything about it. It really feels like a transmission shudder, and is the worst between 30-40mph at light to no throttle.

Take it to an independent shop who knows lifted trucks and performance/stance lowered cars. Ignore the new "measure the ride height" BS that Toyota created for this truck and the new Tundra - it causes more issues than necessary. Hunter now has it integrated into their software and it's...

I'm not going to watch some clickbait video. If the snow is over a legit road and less than maybe 5" deep, or is a fully compacted snow surface where the tires don't sink in at all, that's not deep snow. That's just a snowy road. A Subaru with good tires can cruise over this. Real "deep snow"...

That part has zero purpose - when the hood is closed, there is no gap for critters to enter the air box. The weatherstrip on the intake seals against the hood. And it will absolutely restrict air flow.

I imagine your question is rhetorical, so you don't actually want to know about anyone's specific financial situation. Everyone makes their own financial decisions for cars. Some people make good ones (large down payment and low rate/short term loan). Some make great safe ones (save up, pay...

Yeah, the first Tech was patronizing and immediately dismissive when he drove it with me. I have an appointment with the QC Supervisor this morning where I plan to drive it to recreate the issue.

I calculated the wheel/axle and driveshaft rotational frequencies at certain wheel speeds. Then I did a bunch of vibration data logging with the "Resonance" app on my way home from work. There was zero correlation between frequency and wheel speed, driveshaft speed, or even engine speed. The...

Honestly... File the insurance claim and consider the truck gone. It sucks, but that's likely the best outcome possible for you.

Yes! This is what I'm going to try today. I didn't even think of that idea until @MT-Taco shared an app on the previous page. I think this will definitely tell me if it's a diff/axle/hub issue, or trans/t-case/driveshaft issue.

His trans was the issue, right? I have that fear for my truck too.