Anyone Rear Seat Delete yet? Here's my progress

[Blue_Taco]

Following this thread, took my back seats out for a trip to CO last summer and the space was great. Have been toying with building a seat delete platform out of 80/20 but that can get expensive. @tonymac would like to see how you attached your setup as something I can put in/out as needed is what I am after.

Sponsored

 

[tonymac]

Following this thread, took my back seats out for a trip to CO last summer and the space was great. Have been toying with building a seat delete platform out of 80/20 but that can get expensive. @tonymac would like to see how you attached your setup as something I can put in/out as needed is what I am after.

I used the seat brackets on the ends to screw down an “L” bracket to the rear deck. Keeps the deck in place. I don’t plan on removing so I bent the bracket over to secure it even more. I can take a pic but it is cold and I’m nice and warm. lol.

 

[Blue_Taco]

Thanks for braving the cold to get that picture Anthony!

 

[Darkhorse24]

On my SR5. So far I got the seats out and the trim around the front and side edges. The "tub" storage thing is next and looks like it will come out easy with a few pop pins. The tub is supported by a metal frame that also looks like it will come out (bolted to the back wall and floor I think). Not sure I will remove the frame tho as the blocked off space under the rear passenger seat has a big junction assembly of wires, which I do not want to touch. After I see whats under the tub I will likely put it back and make a hinged plywood lid to cover it. I will remove the seat belts parts and maybe see whats behind the back wall cover. I expect the road noise will be louder, will find out tomorrow.

Update: Got most of the plastic removed, its very easy to get it to this point. It would also be easy to remove that black frame which would open up a lot of usable vertical space (which is what I need), but that assembly of wires is in the way. I suspect at some point I will take out the frame and make some sort of cover for the wires, but for now I'll just leave the tub in place while I figure out what sort of platform to put in there.

my only question is what did you do about the rear seat warning? I put a cooler back there and have a single 8lbs box waiting for a day to get the lights installed, anyways, I get the notification and chimes telling me that I have weight a/o an “unrestrained” rear passenger. Sure, you could probably use a programmer or bypass for the fuse but it would potentially have more problems arise from a warning light.

 

[geonerdist]

my only question is what did you do about the rear seat warning? I put a cooler back there and have a single 8lbs box waiting for a day to get the lights installed, anyways, I get the notification and chimes telling me that I have weight a/o an “unrestrained” rear passenger. Sure, you could probably use a programmer or bypass for the fuse but it would potentially have more problems arise from a warning light.

In my OR there were zero wires plugged into the seats. I vaguely recall a setting I changed somewhere about the backseat reminder.

I’ve had zero issues with any notifications after doing my goose gear delete.

 

[Blue_Taco]

Checking back in, I made a rear seat delete shelf with 2'x4' plywood and a piece of angle iron. I used the GooseGear idea of putting nutserts in the seat frame and using spacers with long bolts for the front support. I left the sides open since I don't have the skills to make access doors. My brother in-law did the cutting, welding and drilling on the rear frame. I topped it with a 2'x4' indoor outdoor rug from Amazon. It is very solid and will support anything I would want to put on it.

I am happy with how it turned out and I have less than $150.00 in it. The Charger1 has to come out when the seat is in, that is if you want to put the seat bottom down. I also put nutserts in for the Charger1. It takes me about 20 minutes to take the rear seats out and put the shelf in. Not going to swap them around much. I'll mostly use this on camping trips. I'm still playing around with the fridge orientation and tie down placement. I also need to paint the frame but that can wait.

I also do not have any notifications after this but I disabled any "rear seat occupant reminders" I found a long time ago.

Edit to add, the shelf weighs 27 pounds without the front supports.

 

[Kielly]

I'm so tempted, especially after seeing this post.

My thing is the only time I usually use my tools is up at my camper and I absolutely hate lugging up a massive toolbox everytime I go up.

I originally considered removing the double seat and leaving the single and building some sort of tool organizer and storage where the double seats would go but I'm trying my hardest not to convince myself to do it, as my back seats do get used enough times that it would be inconvenient at times.

 

[Tycoma]

Checking back in, I made a rear seat delete shelf with 2'x4' plywood and a piece of angle iron. I used the GooseGear idea of putting nutserts in the seat frame and using spacers with long bolts for the front support. I left the sides open since I don't have the skills to make access doors. My brother in-law did the cutting, welding and drilling on the rear frame. I topped it with a 2'x4' indoor outdoor rug from Amazon. It is very solid and will support anything I would want to put on it.

I am happy with how it turned out and I have less than $150.00 in it. The Charger1 has to come out when the seat is in, that is if you want to put the seat bottom down. I also put nutserts in for the Charger1. It takes me about 20 minutes to take the rear seats out and put the shelf in. Not going to swap them around much. I'll mostly use this on camping trips. I'm still playing around with the fridge orientation and tie down placement. I also need to paint the frame but that can wait.

I also do not have any notifications after this but I disabled any "rear seat occupant reminders" I found a long time ago.

Edit to add, the shelf weighs 27 pounds without the front supports.

Looks great and very similar idea of what I’m trying to achieve.

The issue I’m having at the moment is installing the nurserts. Because the 2 layers of plastic, I can’t get the tool flush with the metal and it’s keeping it from grabbing. I feel like I need to take the plastic tub and surrounding plastic out but I have no idea how to do that.

Did you have to take it out? Or what tool did you use?

I have an attachment the goes on your drill. I feel like it would work but I need to get down to the black frame.

 

[Blue_Taco]

@Tycoma yes the plastic tub all had to come out. It's not hard you just remove all the plastic pins holding it in. You push the center of the front pins to get them to release. The pins along the rear need the center pried up to release. I put a picture below that shows each. I used plastic trim tools but you could use a screwdriver, the front pins I just use my finger. I used a cheap Harbour Freight nutsert tool to put them in. It worked great but as you noted the tub has to come out first.

Edit to add, now that I think about it the side pieces that form part of the door sil also had to come out. They are secured at the front and rear, trim tools come in handy for this.

Sponsored