Baltimore
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #1
Titled as such, and opted to put this here and not in "body armor" because I believe these are not in any fashion meant to be considered equal to aluminum or steel sliders, but instead just robust underbody deflection for gravel, road debris, and grime.
If you go this route, and you have the felt-like cover, you only need 4 additional bolts for the secondary cover of you opt to do both.
Note that the front attachment points are different and you need to confirm you have the stabilizer bar as it'll be needed for the new position of the front two mounting screws. If you don't have it, you'll need to purchase that from RCI or similar.
If you only want to do a like-for-like swap, then you need engine cover #1 and no additional bolts.
Parts needed:
[x4] 12mm bolts, part # 90119-A0549
[x1] Engine Shield #1 (front), part # 51410-AK020
[x1] Engine Shield #2 (mid), part # 51420-AK021
Note: you will reuse 4 12mm bolts from your existing splash shield - you need 8 in total
Tools needed:
12mm socket (deep socket or small extension need for front two if air dam is in place)
Ramps or lift highly recommended
Time needed:
About 15 minutes if ramped/lifted
You do not need to remove the air dam, everything is behind it.
The engineering is something to marvel at before it takes on grime, dirt, chips, and rust spots.
I opted to install the 8 plugs for anti-whistling should I ever remove the air dam (that's a 2 min job) while I had the truck ramped up.
It is THICK composite plastic.
I did not do before/after recordings, but my initial impression is that the change from one felt to two composite also deepened the engine idling sound slightly, as there is significantly more resonance reflection on the bottom of the engine bay after the change.
I'm toying with whether to drill two holes through the felt liner and "double stack" the front cover for a combo of road protection on the bottom and sound deadening on the top... Haven't decided.
Original felt shield
Front shields: felt vs composite
Front and mid covers
Thick
Cross member required
Installed
If you go this route, and you have the felt-like cover, you only need 4 additional bolts for the secondary cover of you opt to do both.
Note that the front attachment points are different and you need to confirm you have the stabilizer bar as it'll be needed for the new position of the front two mounting screws. If you don't have it, you'll need to purchase that from RCI or similar.
If you only want to do a like-for-like swap, then you need engine cover #1 and no additional bolts.
Parts needed:
[x4] 12mm bolts, part # 90119-A0549
[x1] Engine Shield #1 (front), part # 51410-AK020
[x1] Engine Shield #2 (mid), part # 51420-AK021
Note: you will reuse 4 12mm bolts from your existing splash shield - you need 8 in total
Tools needed:
12mm socket (deep socket or small extension need for front two if air dam is in place)
Ramps or lift highly recommended
Time needed:
About 15 minutes if ramped/lifted
You do not need to remove the air dam, everything is behind it.
The engineering is something to marvel at before it takes on grime, dirt, chips, and rust spots.
I opted to install the 8 plugs for anti-whistling should I ever remove the air dam (that's a 2 min job) while I had the truck ramped up.
It is THICK composite plastic.
I did not do before/after recordings, but my initial impression is that the change from one felt to two composite also deepened the engine idling sound slightly, as there is significantly more resonance reflection on the bottom of the engine bay after the change.
I'm toying with whether to drill two holes through the felt liner and "double stack" the front cover for a combo of road protection on the bottom and sound deadening on the top... Haven't decided.
Original felt shield
Front shields: felt vs composite
Front and mid covers
Thick
Cross member required
Installed
Sponsored
