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Vibrations due to shifting wheels?

804Rocky

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Since it's not the spline lug nuts bottoming out, then maybe it's an out of round wheel? Move them around and see if the vibration moves as well, try front to back and see if the vibration starts coming through the steering wheel. it should not be centering issue, as hub centric wheels only only help center the wheel while installing, they do not center the wheel wheel when torqued down, that's the job of the conical lug nuts.
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tacorancher

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Since it's not the spline lug nuts bottoming out, then maybe it's an out of round wheel? Move them around and see if the vibration moves as well, try front to back and see if the vibration starts coming through the steering wheel. it should not be centering issue, as hub centric wheels only only help center the wheel while installing, they do not center the wheel wheel when torqued down, that's the job of the conical lug nuts.
But don’t hubcentric wheels help with gradual slippage ? Even if torqued I think the wheel can still move over time
 

804Rocky

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But don’t hubcentric wheels help with gradual slippage ? Even if torqued I think the wheel can still move over time
No, There should never ever be slippage with the conical lug nuts, Each lug nut providing at least 80 lb/ft of torque. Remember the Center bore does not in any way torque down on the hub.
 

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No, There should never ever be slippage with the conical lug nuts, Each lug nut providing at least 80 lb/ft of torque. Remember the Center bore does not in any way torque down on the hub.
Im not an expert but everything I’ve ever read about hubcentric wheels states that they fit more snuggly and reduce the chances of vibration
 

804Rocky

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Im not an expert but everything I’ve ever read about hubcentric wheels states that they fit more snuggly and reduce the chances of vibration
Ask yourself a couple of questions here...
1) if the center bore provided the "centering" of a hub centric wheel, then why can you put it up in place by hand and still move it around? Remeber these things that multi thousands of pounds of force while driving.
2) How did we manage for decades with steel wheels that came nowhere close to be hub centric, but drove at very fast speeds?
The only true hub centric wheels are F1 wheels where they are torqued in the center with essentially one huge lug nut.
 

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emidyl

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Ask yourself a couple of questions here...
1) if the center bore provided the "centering" of a hub centric wheel, then why can you put it up in place by hand and still move it around? Remeber these things that multi thousands of pounds of force while driving.
2) How did we manage for decades with steel wheels that came nowhere close to be hub centric, but drove at very fast speeds?
The only true hub centric wheels are F1 wheels where they are torqued in the center with essentially one huge lug nut.
agreed, I've had many that never vibrated on steelies.
 
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Burgi

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I don’t know guys, I went back to discount tire today and had them road force balance the wheels and check the rims. Everything is good. I put a dial indicator on the rear hubs and they’re straight too.

Not sure what’s going on. I do know the vibration is worst when I’m just lightly on the throttle trying to maintain speed (doesn’t matter what RPM or what speed). As soon as I step on the gas it smoothes out. I’m guessing it has something to do with loading the rear under acceleration?

I need to take it to the dealer but I know they will be zero help and tell me to F off. My 2011 which was on 2 inch spacers rode smoother then this 4th gen on stock suspension.
 

mikeymtbs

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I don’t have any good advice for you other than to empathize. I chased a 70-80mph vibration in my last truck, a Frontier, that drove me crazy because I became super sensitive to ANY vibrations. Anyway, good luck.
 

CrispyTacoLover

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I don’t know guys, I went back to discount tire today and had them road force balance the wheels and check the rims. Everything is good. I put a dial indicator on the rear hubs and they’re straight too.

Not sure what’s going on. I do know the vibration is worst when I’m just lightly on the throttle trying to maintain speed (doesn’t matter what RPM or what speed). As soon as I step on the gas it smoothes out. I’m guessing it has something to do with loading the rear under acceleration?

I need to take it to the dealer but I know they will be zero help and tell me to F off. My 2011 which was on 2 inch spacers rode smoother then this 4th gen on stock suspension.
Any chance you have a friend in the area with a 4th gen Tacoma? If so, swap wheels for a couple of days. If the problem moves with the wheels, you know it’s either the wheels or tires.

If you still have the issue with the buddies wheels, it’s your driveline or suspension.

If that isn’t an option, you might start looking for some 4th gen stock wheels to triage the problem with.
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