Lone Peak Overland Camper Install - Review & Photos

[gofastdan]

Any chance you know where the tapped the power for the 3rd brake light?

Ha! I literally just got done wiring it 15 minutes ago before reading this.

I don't know if there is an easier way but I had already installed this a couple of weeks ago so I could have a separate four way plug to plug my rear light bar in without having to cut any wires. For the third brake light I bought a splitter for the four way plug (one 4 way for the rear light bar and the other for the third brake light) and then used this 2 to 3 way converter to extract just the brake. It has outputs for independent turn signals and brake light and is designed for trailers but works just fine for this application as well. I just taped up the turn signal wires.

I spliced the ground wire for the third brake light into the same ground as was used for the 2 to 3 way converter (used the ground wire from the four way plug for both).

The LP third brake light has the option to function as a running light but I taped that wire as well since I didn't want that.

All the various harnesses create quite the jumble of wires but it's actually simpler than the mess of wires appears. Lots of zip ties are my friend.

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[Greatisland]

Amazing, thanks! If I can't sort out another location then that 2-3 wire conversation will work perfect.

 

[gumbo]

Great info to know, thanks. I have an order supposedly being installed in September with them. Did you get any of their accessories with the camper?

 

[gofastdan]

Great info to know, thanks. I have an order supposedly being installed in September with them. Did you get any of their accessories with the camper?

I think I got most of the options... ;o)
-Juicebox
-Interior lighting
-roof vent fan
-grab handles all around
-bed ladder
-solar panel wiring port (2, one for solar wiring and the other for the potential of a light bar in the future)
-awning mounts
-diesel heater port
-rear pass through window
-rear molle panel
-load bars
-misc, channel nuts, covers, etc...

I bought quite a few of these during the pre-sale pricing but most of these I'd buy again even at full price. So far the only thing I'm thinking I might actually remove is the bed ladder. It's really convenient but when it's not in use it hangs down quite a bit and is just a matter of time before I whack my head. I may end up removing it and just use a small step ladder, or maybe I'll try to fabricate a mount for it that doesn't require permanent installation.

If you're considering different options but aren't sure you want to spend the money I'd advice focusing on items like the rear pass through window that have to be built into the camper initially. You can always add grab handles later but you're not going to be able to replace the window easily.

I think the gear vault is cool but it seemed like a lot of money so I'm going to try to do something similar myself. They're also working on a propane tank mount and water can/mount. Kyle had prototypes for both mounted in his camper and they're nice. I'm not sure when they'll be available though.

 

[trailhunger]

Ha! I literally just got done wiring it 15 minutes ago before reading this.

I don't know if there is an easier way but I had already installed this a couple of weeks ago so I could have a separate four way plug to plug my rear light bar in without having to cut any wires. For the third brake light I bought a splitter for the four way plug (one 4 way for the rear light bar and the other for the third brake light) and then used this 2 to 3 way converter to extract just the brake. It has outputs for independent turn signals and brake light and is designed for trailers but works just fine for this application as well. I just taped up the turn signal wires.

I spliced the ground wire for the third brake light into the same ground as was used for the 2 to 3 way converter (used the ground wire from the four way plug for both).

The LP third brake light has the option to function as a running light but I taped that wire as well since I didn't want that.

All the various harnesses create quite the jumble of wires but it's actually simpler than the mess of wires appears. Lots of zip ties are my friend.

that's one way to do it! Wow

In a thread about Smart Caps there's a diagram of a 7 pin trailer connector looks like a simple reverse splitter that hooks up to the backside of the bumper and apparently their brake light taps right into it. Something like this maybe a ~$30 single harness on Amazon?

I got a GFC installed yesterday and the shop who installed has no clue (or could care less) how my 3rd brake light ties in, so I've been looking around to see what others have done. I also relocated my rearview cameras and know where the OE 3rd brake light connects up in the headliner.

I'm tempted to extend this cable as my main objective, but need to know how to weatherproof the loom for underside frame zip-tieing. I think* the connector is identical to my aux pigtails....Might as well add a reverse light on the GFC back hatch and run it proper; I opted for no glass to keep things lighter allowing more real estate to mount cameras. BTW: the glass-less GFC back hatch offers a bit of flex over that gen 4 tailgate lip. Because I have the powered tailgate, can even access the bed with the hatch locked. Kind of a win there...

 

[gofastdan]

that's one way to do it! Wow

In a thread about Smart Caps there's a diagram of a 7 pin trailer connector looks like a simple reverse splitter that hooks up to the backside of the bumper and apparently their brake light taps right into it. Something like this maybe a ~$30 single harness on Amazon?

I got a GFC installed yesterday and the shop who installed has no clue (or could care less) how my 3rd brake light ties in, so I've been looking around to see what others have done. I also relocated my rearview cameras and know where the OE 3rd brake light connects up in the headliner.

I'm tempted to extend this cable as my main objective, but need to know how to weatherproof the loom for underside frame zip-tieing. I think* the connector is identical to my aux pigtails....Might as well add a reverse light on the GFC back hatch and run it proper; I opted for no glass to keep things lighter allowing more real estate to mount cameras. BTW: the glass-less GFC back hatch offers a bit of flex over that gen 4 tailgate lip. Because I have the powered tailgate, can even access the bed with the hatch locked. Kind of a win there...

I'm not sure if you're asking for advice or just saying what you're going to do but your plan seems solid. There are links in one of my earlier posts to the actual Amazon parts I bought. So far no issues with any of it so I think my post on that issue is solid.

 

[C3GPO]

I got my Lone Peak camper installed in Wenatchee, Wa this past Friday. It's a long story but I was order #127. I placed my order in November of '22 during the initial presale event. At the time I had a '16 GMC Canyon but in Feb placed a deposit on my TRD OR LB. Basically I was waiting on Lone Peak to ramp up production and then LP was waiting for me to get my truck and then they had to develop a solution for the bed design of the new Tacoma.

I'm the first delivery on the new Tacoma but I know they have a couple of other orders. They've been pretty slow about ramping up production so if you ordered one today you're probably looking at Nov (at least) before it is ready. Regardless, I'm very happy with them and feel like they're making a quality product.

There are two quirks with the new Tacoma which any manufacturer is going to have to solve for.

The first is the front bulkhead and the overhang built into the roofline. Combined they make an interesting puzzle but the solution is actually pretty simple. LP simply added a flange to the existing camper. There's actually a bit more to it than that but that's the basic solution. I watched one of the videos an influencer made of GFC's pre-prod build and there's one shot of the flange they designed and it's similar to LP's solution but clearly looks like a pre-prod fix, like they took a piece of aluminum and beat on it with a hammer. I would hope that the prototype look has been resolved for anyone buying it now but I can say that even though I'm the first LP unit, it's fully production ready. I do have a concern about weather sealing since the bulkhead kind of comes to a point where the side rail and back rail come together and it was difficult for the LP installer to get the weather stripping fully under the camper edge. I'll be testing it with a hose in the next day or so and have LP's commitment to redo it if it leaks.

The second issue is the tailgate design. I have no idea why Toyota put a lip on the tailgate but it's something everyone who puts a shell of any kind on the truck is going to have to deal with. I had told Kecia at LP about the lip but somehow the information didn't make it to the design team and they missed it when they were measuring a borrowed truck from the local dealer. Basically, if the shell rear door is closed and you close the tailgate then there is no way to open the shell door because it hits the lip on the tailgate. This doesn't seem like a big deal until you lock yourself inside the bed and can't get out. The premium package with it's power tailgate may be a solution but I don't have that. Really the best solution (and the solution that Super Pacific already has in production) is to replace the plastic cap with a cap that does away with the lip. LP is going to work on that but in the meantime we just raised the wiper seal on the door so that it misses the lip. That means there's a 1/2 inch gap between the tailgate and the camper door so it's not really a solution but at least it's a short term workaround.

Here are a bunch of photos from this weekend. I went directly from having the camper installed to the NW Overland Rally in Plain, Wa so I've spent two nights so far in the camper. In fact I've slept in it every night I've had it so far! Feel free to ask any questions or request specific pictures. The bottom line though is that I'm very happy with the finished product and am looking forward to building it out from the current empty shell that it is. In fact, this afternoon when I got home I installed a 270 batwing awning that I purchased during a black Friday sale last year so I'll throw in photo of that as well.

Thanks for the post! Any chance you could measure ground to roof height of the LP? Not including the bars? I am wondering if this will be garage friendly. Looks like they left a big gap above the truck hood for the shark fin.

 

[gofastdan]

Thanks for the post! Any chance you could measure ground to roof height of the LP? Not including the bars? I am wondering if this will be garage friendly. Looks like they left a big gap above the truck hood for the shark fin.

By "floor" do you mean the ground? That's pretty variable depending on all sorts of factors but the highest point on my truck at the moment (not including anything mounted to the roof) is 86 1/4 inches. All sorts of things are higher than that though. The solar ports are ~1 3/4", the roof vent is ~3 3/4, etc... Basically I won't try to drive under anything less than 8 feet.

That said, my truck is lifted and has bigger tires as well. If I had absolutely no accessories mounted to the roof and no lift or tires I would probably be under 7 feet. I've also taken most of the interior items out of the camper for the winter so that right there adds probably an inch to the ride height.

Maybe this will help, I put the tailgate down and measured from the tailgate to the top of the camper and it's 51 5/8".

Oh, and actually the gap above the roof is less than it could be. There's a cutout in the camper above the shark fin that allowed LP to lower that gap a little on the build. They call it the "dust killer" because it's supposed to provide positive air pressure inside the camper and help keep dust from coming in. I have my doubts but it does allow the camper to sit a bit lower than it otherwise would.

 

[C3GPO]

By "floor" do you mean the ground? That's pretty variable depending on all sorts of factors but the highest point on my truck at the moment (not including anything mounted to the roof) is 86 1/4 inches. All sorts of things are higher than that though. The solar ports are ~1 3/4", the roof vent is ~3 3/4, etc... Basically I won't try to drive under anything less than 8 feet.

That said, my truck is lifted and has bigger tires as well. If I had absolutely no accessories mounted to the roof and no lift or tires I would probably be under 7 feet. I've also taken most of the interior items out of the camper for the winter so that right there adds probably an inch to the ride height.

Maybe this will help, I put the tailgate down and measured from the tailgate to the top of the camper and it's 51 5/8".

Oh, and actually the gap above the roof is less than it could be. There's a cutout in the camper above the shark fin that allowed LP to lower that gap a little on the build. They call it the "dust killer" because it's supposed to provide positive air pressure inside the camper and help keep dust from coming in. I have my doubts but it does allow the camper to sit a bit lower than it otherwise would.

This helps a lot, the tailgate to camper number is the most useful. Thanks for measuring that!

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