HELP. (Ride quality).le

[Darkhorse24]

I’ve owned my 4G for about 3 weeks and have been sitting on a few upgrades (purchased and in my garage, begging for a few days off to build). I am on the fence about doing a leveling kit or just a low lift (2.5-3”) with a few different brands like ReadyLift, RC, Eibach, etc. While I am far from a new off-roader, having come from the JL Wrangler with a 6” lift on 37/12.5R17 and about $24k in upgrades from big brands like TeraFlex, Stinger, Artec. KC, ICON, etc, I am learning how to transition from solid axles to IFS.

So this is the problem: I am a bit “sensitive” when it comes to motion sickness (organ transplant recipient and 3x cancer survivor… only 43yo). While I completely understand SUVs and trucks ride differently, I partly blame the PCS (pre-collision) but more so when I deactivate it, it doesn’t seem to change the outcome. Would anyone have an idea if simply going to taller and softer springs a/o shocks help this or is there another trick to making the ride feel more “overland” rather than stiff like a rock crawler. It’s ironic since my Wrangler was built for trails, mud, snow and rocks yet I also ran Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT 37s on 38psi daily and remote reservoir Fox shocks… kind of curious since I just purchased (still waiting for that much needed day off), Nitto Ridge Grapplers 285/79R17 with Motegi Trailites, thinking maybe it’s just the softness and psi that will help make a difference in the ride.

Anyways any and all help with this predicament would be appreciated. And yes, the JL got “downgraded” back to a basic Rubicon and I was smart enough to keep all my audio, lights (rock, light bars and light pods plus Bantam controller), winch and all my MOLLE and loadout so I didn’t have to start new on the 4G, even swapped back in the upgraded turbo (Garrett G25-550) to drop in the Tacoma when the temps aren’t so extreme.

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[G MAN]

I’ve owned my 4G for about 3 weeks and have been sitting on a few upgrades (purchased and in my garage, begging for a few days off to build). I am on the fence about doing a leveling kit or just a low lift (2.5-3”) with a few different brands like ReadyLift, RC, Eibach, etc. While I am far from a new off-roader, having come from the JL Wrangler with a 6” lift on 37/12.5R17 and about $24k in upgrades from big brands like TeraFlex, Stinger, Artec. KC, ICON, etc, I am learning how to transition from solid axles to IFS.

So this is the problem: I am a bit “sensitive” when it comes to motion sickness (organ transplant recipient and 3x cancer survivor… only 43yo). While I completely understand SUVs and trucks ride differently, I partly blame the PCS (pre-collision) but more so when I deactivate it, it doesn’t seem to change the outcome. Would anyone have an idea if simply going to taller and softer springs a/o shocks help this or is there another trick to making the ride feel more “overland” rather than stiff like a rock crawler. It’s ironic since my Wrangler was built for trails, mud, snow and rocks yet I also ran Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT 37s on 38psi daily and remote reservoir Fox shocks… kind of curious since I just purchased (still waiting for that much needed day off), Nitto Ridge Grapplers 285/79R17 with Motegi Trailites, thinking maybe it’s just the softness and psi that will help make a difference in the ride.

Anyways any and all help with this predicament would be appreciated. And yes, the JL got “downgraded” back to a basic Rubicon and I was smart enough to keep all my audio, lights (rock, light bars and light pods plus Bantam controller), winch and all my MOLLE and loadout so I didn’t have to start new on the 4G, even swapped back in the upgraded turbo (Garrett G25-550) to drop in the Tacoma when the temps aren’t so extreme.

Keep it stock !

 

[MT-Taco]

Well done beating cancer 3X!! I’m 2X and 18 months cancer free…

I installed 6 stage adjustable JRi shocks on my TRD off road a few weeks ago. Ride is fantastic, very well balanced front/rear no more bouncing over bumps, the pickup just glides over bumps now. I set the lift height at 1.5 on the front, the rear came up about 3/8, perfect in my opinion. Leveling kits will increase compression and most often give you a firmer/rougher ride.

https://www.tacoma4g.com/forum/threads/jri-6-stage-adjustable-shocks.8196/page-2

I am however experiencing the beginning of the needle bearing failure! A carry over from previous gens! Fairly easy fix… but why Toyota didn’t address this with the new gen??! Just search Tacoma ECGS fix. Will be done next week.

 

[DesertFast]

I’ve owned my 4G for about 3 weeks and have been sitting on a few upgrades (purchased and in my garage, begging for a few days off to build). I am on the fence about doing a leveling kit or just a low lift (2.5-3”) with a few different brands like ReadyLift, RC, Eibach, etc. While I am far from a new off-roader, having come from the JL Wrangler with a 6” lift on 37/12.5R17 and about $24k in upgrades from big brands like TeraFlex, Stinger, Artec. KC, ICON, etc, I am learning how to transition from solid axles to IFS.

So this is the problem: I am a bit “sensitive” when it comes to motion sickness (organ transplant recipient and 3x cancer survivor… only 43yo). While I completely understand SUVs and trucks ride differently, I partly blame the PCS (pre-collision) but more so when I deactivate it, it doesn’t seem to change the outcome. Would anyone have an idea if simply going to taller and softer springs a/o shocks help this or is there another trick to making the ride feel more “overland” rather than stiff like a rock crawler. It’s ironic since my Wrangler was built for trails, mud, snow and rocks yet I also ran Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT 37s on 38psi daily and remote reservoir Fox shocks… kind of curious since I just purchased (still waiting for that much needed day off), Nitto Ridge Grapplers 285/79R17 with Motegi Trailites, thinking maybe it’s just the softness and psi that will help make a difference in the ride.

Anyways any and all help with this predicament would be appreciated. And yes, the JL got “downgraded” back to a basic Rubicon and I was smart enough to keep all my audio, lights (rock, light bars and light pods plus Bantam controller), winch and all my MOLLE and loadout so I didn’t have to start new on the 4G, even swapped back in the upgraded turbo (Garrett G25-550) to drop in the Tacoma when the temps aren’t so extreme.

Call accutune. They are hands down the best at helping someone with suspension. I have them doing my shocks when the time comes and they know how to build a ride after you upgrade, add weight, etc. to meet your needs. They are more expensive than if you go find a sale set of kings, but they will dial in whatever brand you prefer from them to meet what you're trying to do and do it well.

https://accutuneoffroad.com/

King currently has shocks with resis ready to go. Dobinson has 1-3inch ready for our tacoma it seems but I don't know much about the brand beyond they're ausi and have a really good reputation overe there. I don't like Icons, but they have kits out as well. Camburg is the only other people I know who I'd use for upper control arms/links due to their super strong reputation. C4 makes a front bumper with the cobra cuts so you can adjust the wheels forward enough to fit a 35 without too much fight, but I don't know a thing about re-gearing.

For the car sickness - I think we're in the same club. I get sick driving alone let alone riding in the car with someone else. No joke, I throw a few hundred pounds of sand in the bed (50 lb bags) over the rear and it makes it so much better. I started back in the 90s when I was a kid driving in snow and just learned to love it. As you add stuff to the back like gas tanks, bigger spare tires, etc. you'll just naturally add weight and for me the sand was a cheap "lets see if it works" type deal and I lucked out. Cost me about 40 dollars and 2 2x4s to hold it over the axle. Anecdotal but cheap and worth a try if you're like me.

If you're not in a rush, I find that a year or two out you get good feedback vs trying to rush to whoever put something out fast. I did that with my bronco and that led me to piss away money as problems arose and other companies learned from those mistakes and corrected them. I'd say I wasted an extra 5k just fixing things that I could have avoided if I waited a few months/a year.

 

[tacorancher]

Are the Nittos load range E? What PSI?

 

[CrispyTacoLover]

I’ve owned my 4G for about 3 weeks and have been sitting on a few upgrades (purchased and in my garage, begging for a few days off to build). I am on the fence about doing a leveling kit or just a low lift (2.5-3”) with a few different brands like ReadyLift, RC, Eibach, etc. While I am far from a new off-roader, having come from the JL Wrangler with a 6” lift on 37/12.5R17 and about $24k in upgrades from big brands like TeraFlex, Stinger, Artec. KC, ICON, etc, I am learning how to transition from solid axles to IFS.

So this is the problem: I am a bit “sensitive” when it comes to motion sickness (organ transplant recipient and 3x cancer survivor… only 43yo). While I completely understand SUVs and trucks ride differently, I partly blame the PCS (pre-collision) but more so when I deactivate it, it doesn’t seem to change the outcome. Would anyone have an idea if simply going to taller and softer springs a/o shocks help this or is there another trick to making the ride feel more “overland” rather than stiff like a rock crawler. It’s ironic since my Wrangler was built for trails, mud, snow and rocks yet I also ran Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT 37s on 38psi daily and remote reservoir Fox shocks… kind of curious since I just purchased (still waiting for that much needed day off), Nitto Ridge Grapplers 285/79R17 with Motegi Trailites, thinking maybe it’s just the softness and psi that will help make a difference in the ride.

Anyways any and all help with this predicament would be appreciated. And yes, the JL got “downgraded” back to a basic Rubicon and I was smart enough to keep all my audio, lights (rock, light bars and light pods plus Bantam controller), winch and all my MOLLE and loadout so I didn’t have to start new on the 4G, even swapped back in the upgraded turbo (Garrett G25-550) to drop in the Tacoma when the temps aren’t so extreme.

Which Tacoma trim did you buy?

 

[Darkhorse24]

Which Tacoma trim did you buy?

SR5 4x4 Double Cab

 

[Darkhorse24]

Keep it stock !

truly considered it but much like my JLR, most off roaders come with the “factory squat” so even a simple leveling kit to bring the front up not only looks aesthetically pleasing but when I test fitted the 285s and removing the “crash bar” (behind the front tires on the frame), it won’t turn full lock and to make things more awkward, hitting the tires against the fenders on a +18 offset will most likely damage the fenders… the “little” 2.5” front lift will remedy that issue.

 

[Darkhorse24]

Well done beating cancer 3X!! I’m 2X and 18 months cancer free…

I installed 6 stage adjustable JRi shocks on my TRD off road a few weeks ago. Ride is fantastic, very well balanced front/rear no more bouncing over bumps, the pickup just glides over bumps now. I set the lift height at 1.5 on the front, the rear came up about 3/8, perfect in my opinion. Leveling kits will increase compression and most often give you a firmer/rougher ride.

https://www.tacoma4g.com/forum/threads/jri-6-stage-adjustable-shocks.8196/page-2

I am however experiencing the beginning of the needle bearing failure! A carry over from previous gens! Fairly easy fix… but why Toyota didn’t address this with the new gen??! Just search Tacoma ECGS fix. Will be done next week.

Thank you! I was fortunate to have operable cancers. Two of them were “invasive squamous cell carcinoma” on my head no less… that’s one of the major reasons why I left the Jeep life. Hard to have a convertible SUV when the “pressure” to take the doors and roof off is the go-to for most owners… even with a hardtop and Freedom panels. But truth be told, I threw in the Jeep towel after 13 incl a 3.0L diesel Gladiator, CJ5, CJ7 and a long arm LJ. My first Toyota was the iconic black ‘85 extended cab even down to the bullet hole wheels and KC light bar like Marty’s BTTF dream truck… even had the “Statler Customs” license plate and “2BAK860” vanity license plate.

 

[Darkhorse24]

Are the Nittos load range E? What PSI?

E and they advised to run 36-38psi. When I ran Mickey Thompson Baja Boss ATs, they can handle up to 50psi but I always ran 38-40 on road and down to 28 off road, sometimes dropping to 12-15 on very harsh terrain. I am hoping the lower pressure than the 265s they have at 40-42psi (but have stiffer sidewalls) will help improve the ride quality.

 

[tacorancher]

E and they advised to run 36-38psi. When I ran Mickey Thompson Baja Boss ATs, they can handle up to 50psi but I always ran 38-40 on road and down to 28 off road, sometimes dropping to 12-15 on very harsh terrain. I am hoping the lower pressure than the 265s they have at 40-42psi (but have stiffer sidewalls) will help improve the ride quality.

I just moved to E range Falkens and it just really takes the ride quality down a notch—way bumpier. But you know that. I did the load calculations and your pressures are right on target. I came up with 36-37 being recommended. But I dropped a few PSI from that for the ride quality and it helps a lot and for our lighter trucks it’s fine. Just try 33-34 if you’re willing to experiment.

 

[Darkhorse24]

Call accutune. They are hands down the best at helping someone with suspension. I have them doing my shocks when the time comes and they know how to build a ride after you upgrade, add weight, etc. to meet your needs. They are more expensive than if you go find a sale set of kings, but they will dial in whatever brand you prefer from them to meet what you're trying to do and do it well.

https://accutuneoffroad.com/

King currently has shocks with resis ready to go. Dobinson has 1-3inch ready for our tacoma it seems but I don't know much about the brand beyond they're ausi and have a really good reputation overe there. I don't like Icons, but they have kits out as well. Camburg is the only other people I know who I'd use for upper control arms/links due to their super strong reputation. C4 makes a front bumper with the cobra cuts so you can adjust the wheels forward enough to fit a 35 without too much fight, but I don't know a thing about re-gearing.

For the car sickness - I think we're in the same club. I get sick driving alone let alone riding in the car with someone else. No joke, I throw a few hundred pounds of sand in the bed (50 lb bags) over the rear and it makes it so much better. I started back in the 90s when I was a kid driving in snow and just learned to love it. As you add stuff to the back like gas tanks, bigger spare tires, etc. you'll just naturally add weight and for me the sand was a cheap "lets see if it works" type deal and I lucked out. Cost me about 40 dollars and 2 2x4s to hold it over the axle. Anecdotal but cheap and worth a try if you're like me.

If you're not in a rush, I find that a year or two out you get good feedback vs trying to rush to whoever put something out fast. I did that with my bronco and that led me to piss away money as problems arose and other companies learned from those mistakes and corrected them. I'd say I wasted an extra 5k just fixing things that I could have avoided if I waited a few months/a year.

I might have to try the sand bag trick. I met a local 4G owner and he also came from the Jeep life… he said that the simple transition from solid axles to IFS was a learning experience. He saw the JLR back when I had it and said because of the shorter wheel base, the fact I had about 300lbs between a Kicker CompQ sub, interior steel rack, traction boards, kinetic rope, 2 pelicans and the huge 100lbs 37” spare combatted the bounciness that comes with Jeeps (incl the steel bumpers and winch), it cut down on sprung weight and made the “tub” less flexible. Taking all that into account, since I am considering either a soft tonneau or hard (to protect my loadout), adding the extras in the bed, might solve this issue… essentially the “sandbag” quick fix.

 

[Darkhorse24]

I just moved to E range Falkens and it just really takes the ride quality down a notch. But you know that. I did the load calculations and your pressures are right on target. I came up with 36-37 being recommended. But I dropped a few PSI from that for the ride quality and it helps a lot and for our lighter trucks it’s fine. Just try 33-34 if you’re willing to experiment.

I have tomorrow off and plan to have the tires and wheels mounted and tossed on… this might climate this all together. Now to disengage the PCS permanently… still hating that I have to disengage that every time I drive. While that’s a great safety feature, even turning it down to the lowest setting, the constant braking and over correction makes me feel like upchucking. It unnerves me to think that these are purpose built vehicles and if it were a Corolla or Camry, sure, but on an offroad vehicle, I can imagine how nauseating it would be on rough terrain. Someone suggested removing the sensor (unplugging it from the grille), putting a license plate over it or just pulling the fuse/relay but that might cause CEL/MILs. But still could be the quick answer as well.

 

[tacorancher]

I have tomorrow off and plan to have the tires and wheels mounted and tossed on… this might climate this all together. Now to disengage the PCS permanently… still hating that I have to disengage that every time I drive. While that’s a great safety feature, even turning it down to the lowest setting, the constant braking and over correction makes me feel like upchucking. It unnerves me to think that these are purpose built vehicles and if it were a Corolla or Camry, sure, but on an offroad vehicle, I can imagine how nauseating it would be on rough terrain. Someone suggested removing the sensor (unplugging it from the grille), putting a license plate over it or just pulling the fuse/relay but that might cause CEL/MILs. But still could be the quick answer as well.

Isn’t this a Carista setting?

 

[MT-Taco]

I have tomorrow off and plan to have the tires and wheels mounted and tossed on… this might climate this all together. Now to disengage the PCS permanently… still hating that I have to disengage that every time I drive. While that’s a great safety feature, even turning it down to the lowest setting, the constant braking and over correction makes me feel like upchucking. It unnerves me to think that these are purpose built vehicles and if it were a Corolla or Camry, sure, but on an offroad vehicle, I can imagine how nauseating it would be on rough terrain. Someone suggested removing the sensor (unplugging it from the grille), putting a license plate over it or just pulling the fuse/relay but that might cause CEL/MILs. But still could be the quick answer as well.

Not sure what I did but my PCS has been off for a couple months! Afraid to turn it back on.. But I think I turned it off, shut the pickup off then It came back on turned it off again and has been off since! It was an accident so I’m not positive that’s what I did…

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