Audison Ap 8.9 Bit 8 Channel Amp

[scythanith]

Spoke with a local stereo installer and they recommended an OEM add-on system and interface. A little research shows it does seem to work when installed and tuned by the right people, but it’s also a good ten years old. Has anyone used the Audison setup before?

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[scottharrell7]

Ironically I’m planning on one
day going with the exact set up. I’ve purchased the 8.9 already. I’m just researching on how to go about doing this. I see you put 2022 Tacoma amplifier interface. Is that correct? Ironically I think I have that too from the Tacoma I had before. Thanks

 

[The Dude]

I’m also planning on an Audison setup.

With the PAC module (I assume that’s the first line), you can use the new Forza line, the AP M8.14 bit or 12.14 bit, and use an optical cable from the PAC module into the Forza amp, so you don’t have to de-EQ the system first. You can run “Accordo” (the auto tuning software), then tweak to desired results.

The second line item in your quote allows connection at the JBL amp for the speaker wire, so you don’t have to re-run wire through the cab, you just use factory runs.

Hope that helps a bit.

 

[scythanith]

Will I genuinely notice an improvement in audio (assuming the installed tunes it well) with the stock speakers? I'm used to the idea of having to change the speakers out as well.

 

[The Dude]

Will I genuinely notice an improvement in audio (assuming the installed tunes it well) with the stock speakers? I'm used to the idea of having to change the speakers out as well.

With the stock speakers? I can give you a good, solid “MAYBE”. Only because in the JBL system, the speakers are usually 3ohm, so the amp gives them a bit of a boost, making it a little louder, which you MAYBE percieve as better.

I was operating under the assumption of replacing the speakers. Typically, that’s where you’ll notice the biggest difference. Speaker manufacturers have different characteristics for their speaker lines (ie. Focal is bright, Morel is relaxed or laid back, Kicker screams at volume etc.), and IMO, that’s where the money should go first. But, there’s drawbacks to throwing a nice set of speakers on the JBL amp, they’ll be quieter. Trade offs.

Before you go dropping money on a system, decide what you want it to do. Do you want it loud, peel your face off treble, slammin’ bass, competition class sound? Can you ask the shop where you got the quote for a demo in a vehicle they’ve done, so you can get a feel for the quality of work?

I can help a bit, but I don’t want to decide for you. I’d just hate for someone to drop $1500 on a new system, only to come away disappointed.

 

[scythanith]

I listen to virtually everything except for country. Classical, rock, pop, opera, techno, etc. I just want a clean sound at volume with a good enveloping bass. No max volume, no rumble the mirrors off, not an audiophile by any means. My old system back 20 years ago was all alpine. Type-R components all around with two amps, one for the front and read speakers, one for the two 12" subs (don't need that kind of bass again). I appreciate your suggestions, and fully accept I will make the choice on my own. I just don't understand new tech and how to integrate what I used to know into it, if someone if does anymore lol.

 

[The Dude]

Well, it sounds like you are almost there, with regards to pulling the trigger. By that, I mean you know what you want.

What to get, well, that's a little harder. TBH, you won't get well rounded bass out of door speakers, they just don't make them to play low enough, so a sub is on order. I've found a couple places online that produce a quality sub box, but for us Canadians', they're $$$, like $800 or more. Then you need a sub to fill the hole. If you're not looking to shake the mirrors, a 10" sub would likely work well.

Where the "fun" comes in is in deciding about the front speakers. You have 3 per side, tweeter, midrange, and mid-bass. What makes it fun is - "DO I GO ACTIVE OR PASSIVE?" Active is an amp channel per speaker, passive is one channel for all 3 with the passive crossover in the middle. There's more control and better tuning capability with active, but it's more work, and not necessary if your a "SET AND FORGET" kind of guy. Typically, passive is cheaper as well, as all you need is a good 4-channel amp, instead of a 8-12 channel amp. But with active, you control crossovers', individual EQing, time alignment (making the sound seem like it's coming from the middle of the dash), and more. But DSP amps are $$$ compared to a 4-channel.

If I haven't soured you on the idea of upgrading yet (sorry), ask away, and I'm happy to help.

And btw, I'm 50 and learning this stuff myself. But I'm also installing myself, so I'm going to save money on those fees.

 

[scythanith]

My truck has a sub, but the box is pretty small. I am guessing it’s not breathing that well. Not soured at all, love the discussion and education

 

[The Dude]

My truck has a sub, but the box is pretty small. I am guessing it’s not breathing that well. Not soured at all, love the discussion and education

Cool! Glad I didn't scare you away.

Are you talking about the factory sub? That's an Infinite Baffle setup on the new Tacoma, basically the sub vents to the outside of the cab. Keeps weight down some for Toyota, in the name of MPGEEEEEZ!

I'm actually planning to go underseat for my sub, 12" either Hertz MPS300, JL TW3 or Alpine RS-12D4. On the outside, I'll pick up a dual 10" TacoTunes ported box, depending on my final decision for output.

Have you decided on the AP 8.9 or another option? I'm always interested in the direction others are going, makes me rethink my decisions, hopefully coming to a better choice.

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