Gurvy522
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2024
- Threads
- 19
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- 216
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- 259
- Location
- Chicago, IL
- Vehicle(s)
- 2024 Tacoma Limited
- Thread starter
- #1
Due to my upcoming roadtrip to Moab next week, I needed to get some storage capabilities on top of the cab. I really wanted a Yakima or Thule fixpoint system but they are not available yet - hence I decided to go with a full rack.
I honestly didn't care much for what I got, as I'll eventually be selling it, so I decided on the Martin Offroad rack, which came in around ~$660 shipped with tax, around $100 cheaper than the next closest option. I was pretty close to also getting the RCI rack, but unfortunately, they were out of stock and could not meet my deadline.
The rack is basically just like every other Prinsu-style rack, lasered aluminum side rails and wind fairing with 2x1 extruded aluminum T-slot crossbars.
Overall, I think for the money, it's a decent rack, but here are some pros and cons if you're considering this rack.
Pros:
-Powdercoat finish is great quality and cuts are all smooth and precise.
-Rack feels super sturdy, especially the front fairing as it is supported by an angled extrusion.
-Cheaper than competition, quick shipping (if in stock).
Cons:
-Logo cutout in wind fairing lays against t-slot channel of aluminum that supports it. I could see water and gunk getting easily trapped in here.
-No instructions in box, or online. I did email Gage (the owner) this morning and haven't gotten a response yet - however, it is relatively self-explanatory to assemble and install.
- No counterbore slots in the extrusions. So unless you are using drop-in style t-nuts, you'll have to remove a crossbar to slide them in after install. Not a huge deal as I don't really plan to use any, just the side tie-downs.
-Mounting system isn't that great. The side fairings have an attached angled mounting plate, which have large tolerance holes that sit on relatively narrow aluminum spacers. The competition is mostly using rubber blocks, which would have been a much better choice. The problem with this design is that the only thing keeping the rack properly centered on the spacers is friction, which should probably be OK but not the best option. There were no rubber washers either, and I had to use some sikaflex to ensure water tightness.
Installation was relatively straight forward. Prior to installing the rack, I laid down some xpel PPF on the front of the roof that I purchased off Amazon ($20 for a 6"x60" piece), which probably took the bulk of my time - I think Yotagarage or some other vendor sells a precut piece for $100, but I figured it couldn't be that hard to cut it to size. It was definitely more difficult than I thought to get a straight cut, given the location of the PPF (basically the first 6" of the cab roof). Nonetheless, that finally went on and I started assembling the rack.
Assembly is pretty straight forward, just use the supplied torx screws to attach the crossbars to the side fairings. Since there were no instructions, I had to do a quick calc to figure out the distance between each crossbar, which ended up being 12.5" with 5 load bars. The biggest painpoint in assembly is the front fairing, as it attaches to the wide side of an extrusion that mounts to the front of the rack using t-nuts. So you have to measure the distance between each t-nut and try to get everything lined up. Not a huge deal, just more of a PITA.
Last, the mounting of the rack left a lot to be desired. There are 8 aluminum spacers included with the rack, with no rubber washers. The spacers make direct contact with the roof and mounting brackets. After removing the little plastic covers and poking holes in the tape that covers the pre-drilled holes, I laid a glob of sika in each hole, placed a spacer on top, and then put a glob in the spacer itself. The tricky part is getting the rack onto the cab carefully without moving any of those spacers, which I did with a helper from the bed. The spacers have a relatively small OD, and a larger ID than the bolt itself, so you have to be careful to ensure the spacer is centered when tightening everything down. If not careful, the edge of the spacers will work its way into the cutouts on the rack itself.
All in-all, it's not a bad rack. Have yet to see if the wind noise will be terrible, but hopefully it should be able to lug our portable grey tank and paddleboards to Utah. Just really wish he went with blocks rather than just the dingy spacers.
I honestly didn't care much for what I got, as I'll eventually be selling it, so I decided on the Martin Offroad rack, which came in around ~$660 shipped with tax, around $100 cheaper than the next closest option. I was pretty close to also getting the RCI rack, but unfortunately, they were out of stock and could not meet my deadline.
The rack is basically just like every other Prinsu-style rack, lasered aluminum side rails and wind fairing with 2x1 extruded aluminum T-slot crossbars.
Overall, I think for the money, it's a decent rack, but here are some pros and cons if you're considering this rack.
Pros:
-Powdercoat finish is great quality and cuts are all smooth and precise.
-Rack feels super sturdy, especially the front fairing as it is supported by an angled extrusion.
-Cheaper than competition, quick shipping (if in stock).
Cons:
-Logo cutout in wind fairing lays against t-slot channel of aluminum that supports it. I could see water and gunk getting easily trapped in here.
-No instructions in box, or online. I did email Gage (the owner) this morning and haven't gotten a response yet - however, it is relatively self-explanatory to assemble and install.
- No counterbore slots in the extrusions. So unless you are using drop-in style t-nuts, you'll have to remove a crossbar to slide them in after install. Not a huge deal as I don't really plan to use any, just the side tie-downs.
-Mounting system isn't that great. The side fairings have an attached angled mounting plate, which have large tolerance holes that sit on relatively narrow aluminum spacers. The competition is mostly using rubber blocks, which would have been a much better choice. The problem with this design is that the only thing keeping the rack properly centered on the spacers is friction, which should probably be OK but not the best option. There were no rubber washers either, and I had to use some sikaflex to ensure water tightness.
Installation was relatively straight forward. Prior to installing the rack, I laid down some xpel PPF on the front of the roof that I purchased off Amazon ($20 for a 6"x60" piece), which probably took the bulk of my time - I think Yotagarage or some other vendor sells a precut piece for $100, but I figured it couldn't be that hard to cut it to size. It was definitely more difficult than I thought to get a straight cut, given the location of the PPF (basically the first 6" of the cab roof). Nonetheless, that finally went on and I started assembling the rack.
Assembly is pretty straight forward, just use the supplied torx screws to attach the crossbars to the side fairings. Since there were no instructions, I had to do a quick calc to figure out the distance between each crossbar, which ended up being 12.5" with 5 load bars. The biggest painpoint in assembly is the front fairing, as it attaches to the wide side of an extrusion that mounts to the front of the rack using t-nuts. So you have to measure the distance between each t-nut and try to get everything lined up. Not a huge deal, just more of a PITA.
Last, the mounting of the rack left a lot to be desired. There are 8 aluminum spacers included with the rack, with no rubber washers. The spacers make direct contact with the roof and mounting brackets. After removing the little plastic covers and poking holes in the tape that covers the pre-drilled holes, I laid a glob of sika in each hole, placed a spacer on top, and then put a glob in the spacer itself. The tricky part is getting the rack onto the cab carefully without moving any of those spacers, which I did with a helper from the bed. The spacers have a relatively small OD, and a larger ID than the bolt itself, so you have to be careful to ensure the spacer is centered when tightening everything down. If not careful, the edge of the spacers will work its way into the cutouts on the rack itself.
All in-all, it's not a bad rack. Have yet to see if the wind noise will be terrible, but hopefully it should be able to lug our portable grey tank and paddleboards to Utah. Just really wish he went with blocks rather than just the dingy spacers.
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