Tacoma Bolt On Rock Sliders for 2024 4th Gen Toyota by Cali Raised LED

[cyranodabum]

Yup, that’s my default plan too if I don’t hear anything specific. You also answered another nagging question I had, whether any antiseize or Loctite made sense. I know, I know, two exactly opposite things haha.

Looks like my one of my top plates has a little bend in it too, but given where it bolts down to the sliders, that should go away.

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[BearTacos]

Yup, that’s my default plan too if I don’t hear anything specific. You also answered another nagging question I had, whether any antiseize or Loctite made sense. I know, I know, two exactly opposite things haha.

Looks like my one of my top plates has a little bend in it too, but given where it bolts down to the sliders, that should go away.

Mine were dead flat but they were also raw. Im guessing the baking during powder does that. Both of mine are curved up on each end. Only the narrow front part is still raised after it's attached. The mounting location is a little farther back. If I had to critique the design it would be tread plate thickness, design and add additional mounting location to front of tread or adjust spacing to move it further to the front. Vety impressed with these though, that criticism is being very very analytical. If I had it to do over I'd LineX the tread I think

I'm a big fan of antiseize, I use both silver and the copper style. Rotors, caliper bolts, anything frame related , shocks you name it. If it doesn't need loctite or a tack weld it gets antiseize.

 

[BearTacos]

Sliders went on in an hour with 2 guys. The new video on Cali Raised website is up to date and is exact. My only complaint is the 2 openings the ground lug goes into on the passenger side should be 3/4" taller and at least a 1/4" wider on each side when measured from center. You will need to grind you ground lugs down. Takes 1 min with flap wheel and holding end with channel locks. Take 1/4" off each side prior to mounting the sliders. My only recommendation is 2 gauges thicker tread plate and maybe more holes if you are concerned with weight. Im sure it's more of a material cost and speed of cut on the laser or water jet table though.

 

[SnowmanJPS]

Sliders went on in an hour with 2 guys. The new video on Cali Raised website is up to date and is exact. My only complaint is the 2 openings the ground lug goes into on the passenger side should be 3/4" taller and at least a 1/4" wider on each side when measured from center. You will need to grind you ground lugs down. Takes 1 min with flap wheel and holding end with channel locks. Take 1/4" off each side prior to mounting the sliders. My only recommendation is 2 gauges thicker tread plate and maybe more holes if you are concerned with weight. Im sure it's more of a material cost and speed of cut on the laser or water jet table though.

Now you just need a little yellow “M” for McHappy day

 

[cyranodabum]

@BearTacos Looks great matched with the Pro hood badge and wheel accents!

I did some prep work last night to attach the filler plates, and I realized a little too late that the metal there is really soft. I was warping the plates by overtightening, but it looked fine after I loosened everything a bit. For the overall curvature thing, I remembered that I wanted them mounted upside-down anyway, so that the hole edges would point upward. That basically meant my ends were curved down toward the sliders, so that worked out perfectly.

FWIW @Cali Raised LED replied over email today with a torque spec:

" For those bolts, we use a Grade 8.8 hardware so you can torque those bolts to 55ft-lbs "

The ground lugs issue worries me. I can't really picture it, but I'll just have to deal with it when we get there. But that's why I love this forum, because I know what I'll need to pay attention to later.

 

[BearTacos]

@BearTacos Looks great matched with the Pro hood badge and wheel accents!

I did some prep work last night to attach the filler plates, and I realized a little too late that the metal there is really soft. I was warping the plates by overtightening, but it looked fine after I loosened everything a bit. For the overall curvature thing, I remembered that I wanted them mounted upside-down anyway, so that the hole edges would point upward. That basically meant my ends were curved down toward the sliders, so that worked out perfectly.

FWIW @Cali Raised LED replied over email today with a torque spec:

" For those bolts, we use a Grade 8.8 hardware so you can torque those bolts to 55ft-lbs "

The ground lugs issue worries me. I can't really picture it, but I'll just have to deal with it when we get there. But that's why I love this forum, because I know what I'll need to pay attention to later.

I used a m12 3/8 ratchet on the Allen head bolts and slightly bent the tread. Not sure on torque but a 2 bar battery m12 is that rowdy. The ground tabs are east. Just remove and hold the end with channel locks, pliers etc and buzz sides with battery grinder with flap wheel disc. You could also cut side off with snips or side cuts.

 

[cyranodabum]

I see what you mean now. I didn’t want to grind down the grounding bolt because I like it would put too much angle on the wire. Instead, I put a pack of M8 zinc washers under the grounding bolt.

6 washers was too many, but 4 seemed about right. Not that big of a deal either way, since it’s grounded through both the bolt and contact with the rock sliders. But at least it shouldn’t wiggle or come loose now.

Was so easy to get to the top of the cab when washing the truck today!

 

[BearTacos]

I see what you mean now. I didn’t want to grind down the grounding bolt because I like it would put too much angle on the wire. Instead, I put a pack of M8 zinc washers under the grounding bolt.

6 washers was too many, but 4 seemed about right. Not that big of a deal either way, since it’s grounded through both the bolt and contact with the rock sliders. But at least it shouldn’t wiggle or come loose now.

Was so easy to get to the top of the cab when washing the truck today!

The washers are a bad idea, zinc is not the most conductive and the plating will start to corrode. Also each " layer" is a corrosion point and will eventually make a bad connection. A bad ground connection on a vehicle can create hell when it comes to electrical gremlins. Im.an IBEW Journeyman Lineman and have seem some crazy issues with bad connections. A bad ground can also lead to burnt up sensors, wiring etc if it's used as a nuetral as a DC vehicle system is. I'd grind the ground strap down and make it a solid 1 bolt 1 connection. Each washer is a connection so you now have 8 connection points in your system

 

[cyranodabum]

Thanks @BearTacos, that sounds reasonable.

 

[BearTacos]

Thanks @BearTacos, that sounds reasonable.

You're welcome, when doing electrical connections inside a panel or on high voltage ( over 4k volt up to 345k) all the connections are stainless steel bolts and washers on aluminum or copper connectors. I'd at least use stainless

 

[bluecrush.taco]

Does anyone know if there are any torque specs for these bolts? It looks like the install uses 0.5" and M10 bolts. I have a message out to @Cali Raised LED and will post back once I hear, but just thought I'd ask since I know others have already installed.

The closest info I could find was 30 ft-lbs for RCI sliders, but it looks like that hardware might be M8.

This is what they emailed me when I asked:

"You can torque those M10 bolts to 37ft-lbs and the 1/2" bolts to 55ft-lbs."

 

[bronzebeast]

Does anyone have more photos of the long bed? These look like they don’t extend the full panel wheel well to wheel well?

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