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Aftermarket brake rotors options?

Eric

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Apparently I'm pretty hard on my brakes as I tend to warp my rotors often. Seems like others are having issues with this a well on the '24 Tacoma, some happening within 5K-10K miles. I'm sitting at 19K at the moment. I pull a jet ski in town once in a while, nothing major.

Why can I not find any aftermarket brake rotors for my limited? I look on EBC's site and they list a part number of RK7943, but can't find where to get them anywhere. I found the pads on Amazon so that's a start. I can't seem to find any aftermarket brands anywhere.

Anyone have a source?
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WKTJR1

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Apparently I'm pretty hard on my brakes as I tend to warp my rotors often. Seems like others are having issues with this a well on the '24 Tacoma, some happening within 5K-10K miles. I'm sitting at 19K at the moment. I pull a jet ski in town once in a while, nothing major.

Why can I not find any aftermarket brake rotors for my limited? I look on EBC's site and they list a part number of RK7943, but can't find where to get them anywhere. I found the pads on Amazon so that's a start. I can't seem to find any aftermarket brands anywhere.

Anyone have a source?
Try Rockauto. You'll see that the Tundra and the Tacoma use the same brake parts.
 
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Eric

Eric

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Try Rockauto. You'll see that the Tundra and the Tacoma use the same brake parts.
Thank you! I found what I need from that site you suggested.
 
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Eric

Eric

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What did you decide on? The POWER STOP rotors? I'm hell on rotors also, so please keep us informed.
Pretty much the only option are the DFC's (dynamic friction company) if you don't want drilled and slotted. I'm gonna wait a little longer until my pads wear out all the way before I order them.
 

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If you're "hard on rotors" try re-torquing your lug nuts ~100 mi after any time the wheels are removed.
 

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If you're "hard on rotors" try re-torquing your lug nuts ~100 mi after any time the wheels are removed.
Please tell us more. I have not heard that nugget of wisdom concerning rotors before. I know I need to do that just to make sure nothing backed off.
 

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Please tell us more. I have not heard that nugget of wisdom concerning rotors before. I know I need to do that just to make sure nothing backed off.
There's two forces at work here, both have to do with lugging your nuts. So when you got loose nuts, you wobble. That wobble is gonna cause some rotational imbalances on your rotors, thus speeding up wear.

2ndly, when you got tight nuts, that counter clockwise potential energy is gonna wanna counter your positive travel in a linear direction, thus adding a lot of friction (so think heat and wear) into the rotors and eventually warp them.
 

WKTJR1

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So, what really is the definition of "Performance Rotors"? I've bought several sets over the years that claimed many things over the "standard" rotors. In the end you really just spend more money for a part that may perform marginally better then stock but certainly doesn't justify the cost.

If you claim your driving habits are the cause perhaps you should change those habits.
 

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There's two forces at work here, both have to do with lugging your nuts. So when you got loose nuts, you wobble. That wobble is gonna cause some rotational imbalances on your rotors, thus speeding up wear.

2ndly, when you got tight nuts, that counter clockwise potential energy is gonna wanna counter your positive travel in a linear direction, thus adding a lot of friction (so think heat and wear) into the rotors and eventually warp them.
Thank you for the explanation. I tend to warp them, as I can be an aggressive driver. I'll make sure the lug nuts are not over tightened, as I suspect they are from the factory.
 

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Bravada

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So, what really is the definition of "Performance Rotors"? I've bought several sets over the years that claimed many things over the "standard" rotors. In the end you really just spend more money for a part that may perform marginally better then stock but certainly doesn't justify the cost.
My local trusted mechanic likes to sell me on high carbon rotors, to combat my tendency to warp them? It worked well on my Escalade, before I sold it to get the Tacoma. I'm not sold on holes, slots, etc. And I imagine carbon ceramic probably is better, but doesn't seem worth it on a truck.
Toyota has a pretty good reputation for higher quality than average parts, so I suspect you would be hard pressed to do much better than OEM without spending much more.
 

WKTJR1

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My local trusted mechanic likes to sell me on high carbon rotors, to combat my tendency to warp them? It worked well on my Escalade, before I sold it to get the Tacoma. I'm not sold on holes, slots, etc. And I imagine carbon ceramic probably is better, but doesn't seem worth it on a truck.
Depends on what you use your truck for. Brake parts for trucks lean towards stopping power for heavy loads not spirited driving. I will admit I set my Tundra up as a sport truck with TRD sway bars front and rear, softer shocks (original Bilstein's were too harsh) high quality rotors and Hawk LTX pads. I also rebuilt the calibers and flushed the system several times over 10 years of ownership. Never had any brake issues.
 

Bravada

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Brembo has nothing yet for 4th gen. Probably too early for some of the premium options I guess. When it's been more time for demand to rise, I suspect more options will be available. Knock on wood, hopefully I will have a harder time warping these. :fingerscrossed:
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