CV Axle leak after King 2.5 install

[StreeTaco]

Wow, that’s an extreme angle

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[Mini2nut]

When my experienced shop, 88 Rotors, installed my King 2.5 shocks they insisted on using the premium ($1899) Camburg Kinetic upper control arms. They have had excellent results using this UCA and they install a TON of them.

https://www.camburg.com/products/ca...control-arm-kit-cam-310194-gry-cam-310194-gry

“These arms are meticulously designed and crafted using CAD and CNC machining. They are made from aerospace quality 6061 billet aluminum and undergo bead blasting, Type II anodizing, and laser etching for a sleek gun metal gray finish with our Camburg logo. The larger FK 1.25" uniball with a PTFE liner provides increased strength and mis-alignment for maximum wheel travel. The arms are made in the USA and are superior to cheaper imports. Model specific spacers machined from heat-treated stainless steel adapt the uniball to the spindle/knuckle without drilling or modifications. The 1.25" uniball allows for a larger bolt with a low profile press-on cap to resist the elements. The use of FK 7/8" chromoly heim joints allows for additional camber and caster adjustment while eliminating flexing/deflection and binding. AN/Mil-spec hardware, including a single pinch bolt and secondary jam nut, ensures secure heim joint performance in off-road conditions. The new V2 design increases usable wheel travel, corrects camber and caster, and eliminates weak factory ball-joints. All necessary hardware is included for installation. These arms are designed for 1-3" of lift”

 

[ArnoldN.]

When my experienced shop, 88 Rotors, installed my King 2.5 shocks they insisted on using the premium ($1899) Camburg Kinetic upper control arms. They have had excellent results using this UCA and they install a TON of them.

https://www.camburg.com/products/ca...control-arm-kit-cam-310194-gry-cam-310194-gry

“These arms are meticulously designed and crafted using CAD and CNC machining. They are made from aerospace quality 6061 billet aluminum and undergo bead blasting, Type II anodizing, and laser etching for a sleek gun metal gray finish with our Camburg logo. The larger FK 1.25" uniball with a PTFE liner provides increased strength and mis-alignment for maximum wheel travel. The arms are made in the USA and are superior to cheaper imports. Model specific spacers machined from heat-treated stainless steel adapt the uniball to the spindle/knuckle without drilling or modifications. The 1.25" uniball allows for a larger bolt with a low profile press-on cap to resist the elements. The use of FK 7/8" chromoly heim joints allows for additional camber and caster adjustment while eliminating flexing/deflection and binding. AN/Mil-spec hardware, including a single pinch bolt and secondary jam nut, ensures secure heim joint performance in off-road conditions. The new V2 design increases usable wheel travel, corrects camber and caster, and eliminates weak factory ball-joints. All necessary hardware is included for installation. These arms are designed for 1-3" of lift”

Mini2nut you mind snapping a picture of your cv axel parked for angle reference?

 

[chasea1989]

I'm just going to reiterate the clean and watch it advice since I don't see any obvious tears. Also another option instead of a diff drop would be long travel axles. They're made to work at more extreme angles than OEM. I've installed them on a few tundras and tacomas at my work

 

[Bigt]

Wow, that’s an extreme angle

Agreed. I would look at a dif drop to get that angle more manageable

 

[ArnoldN.]

Agreed. I would look at a dif drop to get that angle more manageable

I'm just a little concerned with that ICON kit. I'm reading that the kit isn't good and causes vibrations. The leaking seems to have stopped for now. Not sure if all grease is just out or it was just initial pressure. I may also back off the preload a bit. King stated that 5 full spins is equal to an inch but also stated that factory preload was to level out the front with the rear. I'm not sure how true that was. I have it 3 full spins and I went from 21 1/2 in center hub to fender to 23 1/4. Initially 24 but I think perhaps the upper control arm needed to settle. I have a hard time believing these CVs can't handle it. I have a TRD Or and I know for sure my UCAs are better than the Toyota ones on the pros and I doubt I'm lifted much more than a TRD pro. I'd be curious to see the angle on a pro or trailhunter.

 

[mikeymtbs]

I’m using All Dogs 1.5-2” lift springs and the Toyota UCA. I’m not concerned with the angles that I’m seeing in my truck.

 

[ArnoldN.]

Thanks, everyone, for all the info and support!

The King shocks so far have been great. I still have my stock wheels and tires as RRW has further pushed a preorder I placed in Nov. I did the King 2.5 all around with the King end links front and back. I also replaced the springs with the Icon ones in the rear. I will say she rides better over things like train tracks pot potholes (I'm in Houston so it's bad). I can say that the truck front center hub to fender is 23 1/2 all the way around. I'll most likely back off the front a half-inch. I think once I put my wheels with 285 75 17r I should be good. If I can solve the problem of keeping my CVs lasting, I'd be happy with the whole setup.

 

[Mini2nut]

“Mini2nut you mind snapping a picture of your cv axel parked for angle reference?.

Request granted. I even used my magnetic angle finder on the LCA and halfshaft.

 

[ArnoldN.]

I’m using All Dogs 1.5-2” lift springs and the Toyota UCA. I’m not concerned with the angles that I’m seeing in my truck.

Yeah I saw a 3rd gen here at my job and got under it to take a look and his CVs were way more angled. I'm becoming less and less concerned myself. I had an Icon stage 2 lift on my 3rd gen that I ran for 140k miles that I gave to my grandfather. Going to go stop by and get under it for peace of mind.

 

[ArnoldN.]

“Mini2nut you mind snapping a picture of your cv axel parked for angle reference?.

Request granted. I even used my magnetic angle finder on the LCA and halfshaft.

Sweet thank you so much. I'm going to pick one of those up today. I will say my passenger side looks like it's in a better angle and that's the one that didn't leak.

 

[ArnoldN.]

Maybe I have too much preload as well.

 

[gasgasman]

I wouldn't replace the axle. Just refill the CV joint with grease and replace the clamp.
A diff drop kit would be cheaper and solve the CV angle issue.

https://www.iconvehicledynamics.com...XMDHUtW4GsdWfowfZbgniY4Lq4TYThpIbk-sB_7JP1liP

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