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Baltimore

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i only adjusted the front camera view.

i read through the calibration manual linked in a previous post and did not find it necessary to do anything else as only the front camera angle is different, sensors/other cameras should not need a recalibration.
then that matches. because making the adjustment was a non-issue. But when you attempt to tell the entire system to "resync" / recalibrate itself... that's when it blows up on you.

They were even on the phone with Toyota corporate, but couldn't even get from them what the "tolerance limits" were.

my initial thinking is 4 possible adventures:
a. restore the limited grille, have them reset everything, do the adjustment myself later and risk a future recalibration screwing things up as a "type 1" grille
b. see if the original bracket on the limited works on the heritage upside down and cross fingers that it'll allow them to put it into tolerance as a programmed "type 2" grille
c. try to secure the heritage camera bracket (which appears to only come with the camera module...) and do the official swap with that, then have them recalibrate
d. pay what might be equal to the service fee to secure the cable and software like Gurvy did and attempt to fix it myself (where I don't have the box/digital level he has either, so that's additional expenses as well)

... because we can't possibly call something the same name consistently ...

2024 Tacoma Heritage Grill Camera Swap - Observations 1743022277326-k
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So much knowledge and deep thought going on in this thread. Hoping to install my RAVE purchased grille with camera and bracket on my 2024 OR Premium this weekend. But a bit confused honestly on what i need to do to have the camera system working accurate afterwards.

If i install the RAVE grille and bracket and install the camera and everything else in the same orientation as it was on the original OEM grille does the images from the cameras accurately depict the correct distances to objects and such? Do I need to do the front camera recalibrate process via mentioned here afterwards or not? I dont care so much if the image looks a bit skewed then normal but i dont want the distances and accuracies of what you see VS when u actually hit something to be off,
 

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If you use the rave bracket, you will need to access the diagnostic menu afterwards and perform a positive angle adjustment to your front camera. It'll most likely be in the range of +162 to +165 and you'll want to do so in an area that has a ton of lines you can track against (like a painted hash square) or follow the ground marking setup that calibration requires. Should you go this route and your camera system ever need to be recalibrated fully, it will fail and you'll have extremely limited camera use until you can bring the camera into tolerance on its base angle. My dealership also noted that the camera was slightly off left/right as well and they had to adjust that.

The Heritage (TH and TRD Pro) grilles use a completely different camera bracket setup, actually mounts vertically not horizontally based on the diagrams, and mount the camera 180° opposite the other grilles.

I located the part number for the OEM bracket and it confirms that every aftermarket option currently out there (29Mar25) is taking an incorrect approach. I opted to bite the bullet and order the OEM bracket to rectify things. The sucky part is that the bracket itself is not an independent part and you must buy the bracket + camera assembly (no subassembly diagram). This means what could be a 25-40 dollar part is now retail for over 200. Once you layer in tax and shipping considerations, Fred Anderson had the best price (yet again) at $146 USD shipped.

Once it arrives, I plan to pull the truck face, swap the camera to the correct OEM one, then schedule an appt with the dealer to recalibrate. I'll just have to drive with the camera upside down the few days in between. The dealership is estimating the calibration at 3-4 hr shop time for the process. They said the process is straightforward, but the amount of time to correctly take the measurements and set the ground marks accurately is considerably and they do it with a tech+head tech to make sure it's accurate. So I'm suspecting 90-120min of setup and 60-90min of actually camera manipulation. I was told 3h of shop time at my local deal would be around $500. We will see what the final tab is.

I'll report back again when all is said and done.

(Fwiw, my guess on why perfect alignment on my camera under the rave bracket was +162, while others say +165 felt correct, may be due to the AVS system self- leveling vs non-AVS trims)
 

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If you use the rave bracket, you will need to access the diagnostic menu afterwards and perform a positive angle adjustment to your front camera. It'll most likely be in the range of +162 to +165 and you'll want to do so in an area that has a ton of lines you can track against (like a painted hash square) or follow the ground marking setup that calibration requires. Should you go this route and your camera system ever need to be recalibrated fully, it will fail and you'll have extremely limited camera use until you can bring the camera into tolerance on its base angle. My dealership also noted that the camera was slightly off left/right as well and they had to adjust that.

The Heritage (TH and TRD Pro) grilles use a completely different camera bracket setup, actually mounts vertically not horizontally based on the diagrams, and mount the camera 180° opposite the other grilles.

I located the part number for the OEM bracket and it confirms that every aftermarket option currently out there (29Mar25) is taking an incorrect approach. I opted to bite the bullet and order the OEM bracket to rectify things. The sucky part is that the bracket itself is not an independent part and you must buy the bracket + camera assembly (no subassembly diagram). This means what could be a 25-40 dollar part is now retail for over 200. Once you layer in tax and shipping considerations, Fred Anderson had the best price (yet again) at $146 USD shipped.

Once it arrives, I plan to pull the truck face, swap the camera to the correct OEM one, then schedule an appt with the dealer to recalibrate. I'll just have to drive with the camera upside down the few days in between. The dealership is estimating the calibration at 3-4 hr shop time for the process. They said the process is straightforward, but the amount of time to correctly take the measurements and set the ground marks accurately is considerably and they do it with a tech+head tech to make sure it's accurate. So I'm suspecting 90-120min of setup and 60-90min of actually camera manipulation. I was told 3h of shop time at my local deal would be around $500. We will see what the final tab is.

I'll report back again when all is said and done.

(Fwiw, my guess on why perfect alignment on my camera under the rave bracket was +162, while others say +165 felt correct, may be due to the AVS system self- leveling vs non-AVS trims)

Thanks for the in depth explanation. This is what I think I'm hearing. What if anything is incorrect?


1. If you swap to the heritage grille + rave bracket and do nothing afterwards.....

Your tolerances will be off. But how off? You think you have 3 feet to a wall but you've already hit it?

2. If you swap to the heritage grille + rave bracket and perform diagnostic front camera angle adjustment...

Your tolerances are close to normal and accurate enough to be safe?

3. If you swap to the heritage grille + rave bracket and perform diagnostic front camera angle adjustment AND goto the dealer for them to perform full calibration adjustments...

Your tolerances are accurate and near perfect? Albeit now hundreds to the dealer?

4. If you swap to the heritage grille + OEM TH bracket and camera. Now everything being mounted upside down. AND goto the dealer for them to perform full calibration adjustments, truck grille type changes, etc....

Your tolerances are accurate and perfect? Albeit now hundreds to the dealer and hundreds on OEM TH bracket?
 

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Thanks for the in depth explanation. This is what I think I'm hearing. What if anything is incorrect?


1. If you swap to the heritage grille + rave bracket and do nothing afterwards.....

Your tolerances will be off. But how off? You think you have 3 feet to a wall but you've already hit it?

2. If you swap to the heritage grille + rave bracket and perform diagnostic front camera angle adjustment...

Your tolerances are close to normal and accurate enough to be safe?

3. If you swap to the heritage grille + rave bracket and perform diagnostic front camera angle adjustment AND goto the dealer for them to perform full calibration adjustments...

Your tolerances are accurate and near perfect? Albeit now hundreds to the dealer?

4. If you swap to the heritage grille + OEM TH bracket and camera. Now everything being mounted upside down. AND goto the dealer for them to perform full calibration adjustments, truck grille type changes, etc....

Your tolerances are accurate and perfect? Albeit now hundreds to the dealer and hundreds on OEM TH bracket?
#1 your parking sensors are not impacted. Visually you will think you are closer than you are. Should a calibration ever be performed or needed, you will find yourself at #3 once they try to line up the camera view.

#2 your camera view will line up, but technically be in "pending" mode. Should a calibration ever be performed or needed, you will find yourself at #3.

#3 your 360 camera system will disable

#4 you will be restored to acceptable factory expectations and all will be fine after they switch your internal computer setting to "grille 2" and calibrate
 

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Well it's certainly sounds more and more like to do this properly it's not as simple as just getting the heritage grill.
 

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Yea im incredibly frustrated right now because i have $800 worth of a rave heritage grill / diode dynamics light bar combo in my basement for 3 months now not knowing how to proceed to start enjoying it being installed on the truck.
 

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Yea im incredibly frustrated right now because i have $800 worth of a rave heritage grill / diode dynamics light bar combo in my basement for 3 months now not knowing how to proceed to start enjoying it being installed on the truck.
The part that's up in the air is all around the camera being proper. Life is getting in the way of me getting to the final answer faster as I suspect it'll be a few weeks until I can pull the face off, swap the camera, then book the appointment with the dealer for the recalibration.

In the interim, I don't know if you have the 18" or new 20" Diode. But you might find this useful if you haven't read through it yet. For me, I did the gap plug shaping and mounting light to grille to get all that sorted first, then everything wiring related second so that the plug and switch were in place and ready to go. Different weekend was the swap itself where I had the time, space, and second set of hands for managing the full truck face.

https://www.tacoma4g.com/forum/thre...ht-bar-on-a-vehicle-without-factory-aux.8252/
 

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The part that's up in the air is all around the camera being proper. Life is getting in the way of me getting to the final answer faster as I suspect it'll be a few weeks until I can pull the face off, swap the camera, then book the appointment with the dealer for the recalibration.

In the interim, I don't know if you have the 18" or new 20" Diode. But you might find this useful if you haven't read through it yet. For me, I did the gap plug shaping and mounting light to grille to get all that sorted first, then everything wiring related second so that the plug and switch were in place and ready to go. Different weekend was the swap itself where I had the time, space, and second set of hands for managing the full truck face.

https://www.tacoma4g.com/forum/thre...ht-bar-on-a-vehicle-without-factory-aux.8252/
Understood. I just want to install the damn thing but not have the camera system be inaccurate as far as where you are in relation to hitting something in drastically skewed. Nor do i want the image stiching to be way off and not make sense.

I saw your post, incredible work. I also am annoyed by the massive gaps on the sides with the 18". THe 20" istn out yet to my knowledge as thats apart of their new stage series release coming soon.
 

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@Gurvy522 @Baltimore @Delta1Seven


Hey guys, i sent you a PM as well, just trying to determine what to do here because im confused on why its not adding up to Rave Offroads video instructions..

I was starting the heritage grill install that i got from Rave Offroad today and the rave bracket is not seeming to align with how Rave Offroads videos says it should. They say that the Rave letters on the bracket should be facing upwards towards the top of the grille\emblem, as well as the clip\notch on the camera. Im just looking to make sure im not crazy here because this is not possible with what i was given. If you the Rave lettering is facing upwards towards the top of the grille, then the cameras notch\clip will be facing down towards the ground. The camera only inserts into the bracket one way and the bracket only lays on the grille one way. Tell me im not crazy.

Here is the original OEM bracket and the camera that was on my 2024 Offroad. The white marks are signifying thats the direction facing upwards towards the top of the grille\emblem. As you can see the camera clip\notch is as well.

Original_Oem.jpg


Here is the camera inserted into the Rave Offroad bracket, in which the camera can only be inserted one way. However, when you install this Rave bracket into the heritage grille from them, the Rave bracket lettering needs to be facing upwards towards the top of the grille\emblem like they mention. But when thats the case, the camera is now flipped 180 degrees compared to how it was on the OEM grille and bracket. Meaning the cameras notch is facing the ground\bottom of the grille. Which tells me the image is going to be upside down, is it not?? What am i missing here??

Rave_bracket.jpg


Rave_bracket2.jpg
 

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Well, kind of expected this. Seems like if I use gts+ to change my grille type to type2, and also adjust my front camera to +165 or may get me to where I need to be?

I'm still puzzled how I got a rave bracket that puts the camera upside down when everyone else and even their video doesn't align to that.

Guess I'll be emailing them to see what they have to say.

2024 Tacoma Heritage Grill Camera Swap - Observations 20250426_153408
2024 Tacoma Heritage Grill Camera Swap - Observations 20250426_153628
2024 Tacoma Heritage Grill Camera Swap - Observations 20250426_100332
2024 Tacoma Heritage Grill Camera Swap - Observations 20250426_150348
2024 Tacoma Heritage Grill Camera Swap - Observations 20250426_150526
 
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If you use the rave bracket, you have to leave the grille as type 1. Otherwise you need the OEM heritage bracket or a 3d print like Gurvy's file to match the upside down mounting required for grille type 2.

Wish I had someone close by with GTS+ (not a dealership)!
 
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@emerica243 Saw your DM but figured I'd reply here - I don't really have much experience with the Rave bracket, but as others have stated, I'm fairly certain you're supposed to leave it as Type 1 as Rave isn't expecting people to flash their ECUs, and they explicitly mention leaving the tab upright in their videos. Unless Rave decided they were going to start making/prototyping a Type 2 version and accidentally mixed them up shipping to you.

As @Baltimore stated, I made two versions of my own bracket - prior to Rave releasing theirs, one compatible with Type 1 and another compatible with Type 2. Both work, but the Type 2 bracket requires an ECU reflash, but less modification to the surround view calibration. This is because the Type 2 config is designed for the OE heritage grill cam bracket, which does mount the camera upside down.
 
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emerica243

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If you use the rave bracket, you have to leave the grille as type 1. Otherwise you need the OEM heritage bracket or a 3d print like Gurvy's file to match the upside down mounting required for grille type 2.

Wish I had someone close by with GTS+ (not a dealership)!
Thanks for the PM, always tons of interesting info and time u spent in this subject. Im jealous of those brackets you did for your 18" DD light bar. Those end gaps are hideous lol.

I think you missed my main point though. The RAVE bracket i got, has the camera mounted upside down. Basically the same thing gurveys bracket he designed that mounts it upside down.

I sent RAVE an email asking wtf is up and why they sent me a bracket with their grille that then puts my camera upside down. Was lovely to see they arent open today after i already spent the time tearing everything apart, ready to install the new grille but to realize the bracket they gave me does now follow their install video at all.

@emerica243 Saw your DM but figured I'd reply here - I don't really have much experience with the Rave bracket, but as others have stated, I'm fairly certain you're supposed to leave it as Type 1 as Rave isn't expecting people to flash their ECUs, and the explicitly mention leaving the tab upright in their videos. Unless Rave decided they were going to start making/prototyping a Type 2 version and accidentally mixed them up shipping to you.

As @Baltimore stated, I made two versions of my own bracket - prior to Rave releasing theirs, one compatible with Type 1 and another compatible with Type 2. Both work, but the Type 2 bracket requires an ECU reflash, but less modification to the surround view calibration. This is because the Type 2 config is designed for the OE heritage grill cam bracket, which does mount the camera upside down.
Totally get it. Which is why im totally confused on the bracket i got from them and how its mounting the camera upside down with it. Doesnt match their install video, as it wont allow you to insert the camera with the notch up like they state. And they mention no where on their site about any of this.

Will see what they email back with i guess come Monday. Maybe they sent me the wrong bracket by mistake like you said. I printed your brackets a few weeks back, and the one is designed just like this Rave one i recieved, where camera notch is on bottom and therefore for upside down image.
 

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Thanks for the PM, always tons of interesting info and time u spent in this subject. Im jealous of those brackets you did for your 18" DD light bar. Those end gaps are hideous lol.

I think you missed my main point though. The RAVE bracket i got, has the camera mounted upside down. Basically the same thing gurveys bracket he designed that mounts it upside down.

I sent RAVE an email asking wtf is up and why they sent me a bracket with their grille that then puts my camera upside down. Was lovely to see they arent open today after i already spent the time tearing everything apart, ready to install the new grille but to realize the bracket they gave me does now follow their install video at all.



Totally get it. Which is why im totally confused on the bracket i got from them and how its mounting the camera upside down with it. Doesnt match their install video, as it wont allow you to insert the camera with the notch up like they state. And they mention no where on their site about any of this.

Will see what they email back with i guess come Monday. Maybe they sent me the wrong bracket by mistake like you said. I printed your brackets a few weeks back, and the one is designed just like this Rave one i recieved, where camera notch is on bottom and therefore for upside down image.
Yeah. I caught onto that after I hit reply. I do wonder if they are prototyping the inverse bracket and it slipped through to you. That's be super curious. When they sent me the wrong dash switch (blue light to match tundra) they were super fast to sent out the correct one.

Sucks that you have to put everything back together knowing you'll have to pull it apart at least once more.

Post some pictures of the bracket they sent. And if they send a replacement do some side by sides!
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