2024 Hybrid 2400w Inverter Application(s)

[brentbba]

I have a TH. Only a 120v outlet in the bed. A dual 12v/120v outlet would have been better. As stated earlier, parking on, AC 120V switch on dash on and truck on for the outlet to work. I was hoping the outlet in the bed would work while driving to power a fridge. Perhaps it will. Anyone know for sure. Owners manual doesn't say.

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[rchrds]

I have a TH. Only a 120v outlet in the bed. A dual 12v/120v outlet would have been better. As stated earlier, parking on, AC 120V switch on dash on and truck on for the outlet to work. I was hoping the outlet in the bed would work while driving to power a fridge. Perhaps it will. Anyone know for sure. Owners manual doesn't say.

Trailhunter here too- There's a 12V and USB plug over on the other side of the bed with the compressor. The bed outlet will definitely power a fridge- it can run my ICECO no problems. The car does have to be on to do this- which means the engine is either running, or turning on and off randomly, which is quite irritating. So the potential problems are leaving the fridge in the back and then on a road trip having to park somewhere in a lot (with people) and leaving your car running. Yes, you can lock it with the mechanical key, but it's still running out there all by itself. It all depends on the cooler and the outside air temp, how long you want to leave it without having power.

If the traction battery gauge on the display is accurate, it never really seems to charge more than about half way. Its too bad that battery cant be charged up all the way so that you have maximum time between engine starts when using the inverter.

 

[brentbba]

Nice, hadn't noticed those when I tried out the compressor. So same annoying power issue. That stinks! One or the other should be live regardless. The 12v would be fine, but I guess Toyota thinks we're all stupid and can't make age our power consumption! It needs to be live while driving or it's almost useless for a fridge.

 

[rchrds]

Thank you! That's great info! I'm wondering how long it might power things before it needs to start the engine? I know it depends on the device you are plugging in....but let's say one of those plug in coolers that refrigerate? I'll check out that manual!

Its an (edit: ) 1.87KWH battery. Judging by my instrument gauge of that battery it never really seems to charge more than half way- so about 0.9KWH.
I have a 47Q ICECO

https://icecofreezer.com/products/iceco-vl45-portable-refrigerator-freezer

Specs say it uses 0.347KWH/24 hour period. That seems low to me, but it depends a lot on how much you open it, and how you set the temps. I run mine off 1KW of lithum batteries in my camper, and it will run for several days, so it may be accurate.

Based on that- looks like about 3 days per KWH, and most people start the car once a day to go places. No numbers from Toyota on what triggers the engine start.

 

[rchrds]

Nice, hadn't noticed those when I tried out the compressor. So same annoying power issue. That stinks! One or the other should be live regardless. The 12v would be fine, but I guess Toyota thinks we're all stupid and can't make age our power consumption! It needs to be live while driving or it's almost useless for a fridge.

I haven't checked- but the 12V might be live with the engine off- but I bet it draws off the start battery and not the traction (hybrid) battery- thats risky. My ICECO will run from either DC or AC power. I normally run it 12V DC in the camper, so I don't have to turn on the inverter over there.

 

[brentbba]

Ok, I'll check. Today's fridges draw so little it's not the issue I had with my ancient ARB. Then again, I was running dual batteries with a separator. I don't think I even have anything with a 12v adaptor anymore! I'll have to try the usb port and assume if it's powered without the engine on, the 12v probably is too.

 

[brentbba]

@rchrds , usb ports at the compressor are on when the compressor is turned on, so I can assume the same will be true of the 12v plug. Compressor will only run with the truck on. That takes care of fridge power when driving. Now to see if the 120v outlet in the truck will work while driving. I doubt it as I think it's the same circuit as the bed outlet tied to the button on the dash.

 

[rchrds]

@rchrds , usb ports at the compressor are on when the compressor is turned on, so I can assume the same will be true of the 12v plug. Compressor will only run with the truck on. That takes care of fridge power when driving. Now to see if the 120v outlet in the truck will work while driving. I doubt it as I think it's the same circuit as the bed outlet tied to the button on the dash.

I mean, you can turn on the 120v on the dash while driving (wife works from “home” while I drive cross country) with her laptop plugged in inside, so the bed should also work while driving.

 

[brentbba]

I mean, you can turn on the 120v on the dash while driving (wife works from “home” while I drive cross country) with her laptop plugged in inside, so the bed should also work while driving.

Worth checking! Compressor manual says truck on, parking brake engaged, which happens when truck is in park. Power may not be there when driving.

 

[brentbba]

I did turn on the AC120 button driving this evening. It did illuminate and stay on. Encouraging to say the least. Now to plug in something both in the bed and in the center console just to confirm power.

 

[brentbba]

Best of news on my driving test with a high draw hair dryer. Both the cab and the bed 120v outlets did work while driving down my residential street.

 

[rchrds]

As suspected- but thanks for double checking.

 

[trailhunger]

…If the traction battery gauge on the display is accurate, it never really seems to charge more than about half way. It’s too bad that battery cant be charged up all the way so that you have maximum time between engine starts when using the inverter.

I’m wondering if that reading of ~1kWh is what’s available to you outboard; given the multitude of driving scenarios with the iForceMax when it shuts down perhaps it usually leaves a set reserve to the operator for outboard power.

all the more reason to daisy chain a decent power station to the vehicle. Because the high output inverter is constant @2400w when in park or drive, you’ll be able to charge an ass load of standalone battery packs + your fridge and get to camp topped off. Should you need generator mode like in the winter where you might need to run a heater for a bit, it’s there for you. It’s really a great design, but for current battery standards yes 1-1.9kwh is kinda weak. You’ll definitely drain it just boiling a pot of water on an induction plate if you’re just pulling from the bed 120v AC

I do wonder about the source power for those 12v ports on the compressor side. If they do pull from the starting battery, you should have shut off protection. I have a 12v heat mattress pad, ~100w. Curious how long I can run that off the bed port…

EDIT: and if you’re in the boondocks or at a rest stop, parking lot, etc generater mode burns about .75 gallon of gas every hour that it’s in operation w/the engine running!

 

[rchrds]

EDIT: and if you’re in the boondocks or at a rest stop, parking lot, etc generater mode burns about .75 gallon of gas every hour that it’s in operation w/the engine running!

Gads- nice math, and good to know.

 

[trailhunger]

Gads- nice math, and good to know.

That fuel burn rate is from Toyota engineering to the guys at Xoverland! In one of their videos

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