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Fog Lights: Essential or Outdated? Let’s Chat About Winter Visibility!🌟

LASFIT

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With winter sneaking up on us, we all know what’s coming—foggy mornings🌫, rainy evenings🌧, and those eerie, snow-filled nights❄. When you’re driving in these tricky conditions, every bit of visibility helps. But here’s the thing: not all vehicles, especially the newer models, come with fog lights anymore.

So, let’s get into it—does your ride still have fog lights? If it does, do you find them useful when the weather takes a turn for the worse? Or, if your car isn’t equipped with them, how do you tackle driving in low-visibility situations? 😬

We’d love to hear everyone’s thoughts and tips. Winter weather can be unpredictable, but we can all be a bit more prepared by sharing what works (or doesn’t) when visibility drops!😛
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Mako_Shark27

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I'll weigh in even though I'm way too far south for that frozen white stuff. This new truck has got fog lights on it, not too bad either. I like the way they cut through the fog I've run into since my purchase. However, my Camry before this didn't have them and I always just used my high beams to cut through the fog, never had any issues with it. Even back when I had my Sequoia I used my high beams, but my fog lights were dead on it so I had to use what I had available.

Not sure how needed fog lights are for snowy weather but most people down here in Florida, especially SW Central, don't use them even if they're equipped. Best advice for anyone out there is just drive for the weather conditions and know how your vehicle is going to respond in certain situations.
 

goin2drt

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Honestly they are worthless. Especially most OE fog lights on any vehicle. We have driven in snow, dense fog and off road at night in the heavy dust.

If you drive in those three conditions you really need something specific and with WAY more output. We found on our side by side a very low mounted bright yellow really helps with the night vision. We experimented with front bumper and roof mounted and at night trailing someone we liked the low mount best. In snow especially when snowing I like a very wide spread white and very bright fog. Often in our town streets were not plowed well or yet and you really needed to see a much wider path then your car. Lastly in dense fog I think not much helps at all but if anything a more narrow beam in yellow can help a little but not much helps in thick fog.

so with all that you would really needed almost a programmable type beam and color to be the “best“ fog light.

instead I turn on my cheap a$$ weak Tacoma OEM fogs at light to look cool. That’s about it.
 

Vidman

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I had the stock fog-driving lights on my Tundra and they sucked. I replaced them with Rigid amber pods and it was an awakening these lights were the best fog lights that I had ever used. I used to travel to Montana every fall for our hunting trip and those lights helped in every weather condition and for being able to see deer on the sides of the roadway way sooner than your headlights could. I will always run a good amber fog light on all my trucks. I removed the Rigids from the tundra when I traded it in And hopefully I can find a place for them on my Tacoma
 

CrispyTacoLover

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Essential for combating the asshats with auto brights (and their bad sensors).
 

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bitflogger

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My TRD OR fog lights are better than expected and the headlights overall very good too. While one can aim the headlights low, the fog lights are aimed low where they complement headlights and put more light sideways. Not only all quite effective but not so that other motorists are bothered.
 

evlfred

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I would really like the color switching ones off the trail hunter, anyone know if you can upgrade to them?
 

chounder

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Some of the newest cars from Audi and Porsche don’t need them because they are integrated in to the “Matrix” headlights. These have multiple LEDs that can be selectively turned off or on depending on the conditions.
 

Suzay

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The oe fog lights on the 4th gen suck. They aren’t as bright and if the bulbs were replaceable I’ve done it already. Hoping lasfit comes up with something that isn’t quite expensive, worth it, and plug and play.
 

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Baltimore

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Using high beams in bad weather is bad (counter intuitive) as it illuminates more but it's by reflection and thus reducing how far ahead and how clearly you can see.

While white light is "brighter", it's actually less penetrating than colored light in adverse conditions.

Lower is better, and yellow/amber/blue is better than white.

My OEM fogs on my gen 1.5 Highlander worked great in bad rain or snow, since they projected strongly along the road surface ahead of the wheels.

On this one, I've switched out the OEM whites with Diode Dynamic ambers. I've also incorporated an amber grille light bar to use in lieu of high beams in less ideal weather.

High beams should really only be used in good weather when there is no chance of oncoming traffic. I detest ppl driving around with their highs on constantly or when there's regular oncoming traffic.

My high beams are likely my least used lighting option unless I'm doing a site setup or driving an empty country road and want to watch for deer and other four legged wildlife.
 

maxx075

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Using high beams in bad weather is bad (counter intuitive) as it illuminates more but it's by reflection and thus reducing how far ahead and how clearly you can see.

While white light is "brighter", it's actually less penetrating than colored light in adverse conditions.

Lower is better, and yellow/amber/blue is better than white.

My OEM fogs on my gen 1.5 Highlander worked great in bad rain or snow, since they projected strongly along the road surface ahead of the wheels.

On this one, I've switched out the OEM whites with Diode Dynamic ambers. I've also incorporated an amber grille light bar to use in lieu of high beams in less ideal weather.

High beams should really only be used in good weather when there is no chance of oncoming traffic. I detest ppl driving around with their highs on constantly or when there's regular oncoming traffic.

My high beams are likely my least used lighting option unless I'm doing a site setup or driving an empty country road and want to watch for deer and other four legged wildlife.
Thinking about getting the DDs, you like them? Do they put out enough light compared to the stock?
 

Baltimore

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Thinking about getting the DDs, you like them? Do they put out enough light compared to the stock?
They're pretty intense! If I had the OEM switchable I would have likely not gone this route, but I had decided I wanted them amber over white, and since I wanted to say both street legal and have the lens match what I was putting in the grille, I opted for these. I'm overall happy with the purchase, but I do have some callouts that I put in my review on Rave Offroad. I've copied that below. At the end of the day, I was able to get them level (ended up 5 or 6mm below the top bumper line reference) but it took some pushing against the max bracket positions and tightening at the same time to make it happen. I can set aside hassle of a 1-time install, but I do wish they sat closer to the back of the bumper trim so that they appeared more "flush".

I'll be pulling the bumper back apart to change out the upper bumper piece and I'm toying with whether or not to take a measurement and stack some washers/spacers in there between the brackets and the frame. Will see how I feel in the moment.

Like the lights, brackets need work

Installation was straight forward, although including more detailed printed instructions with pictures + a link to a video would have been massively appreciated. Instead, had to google for the Diode Dynamic video, which also was less than clear on bracket placement and positing. Instructions and video also lacked any instructions on washers and lock washers to ensure fixture didn't tilt or drop after install. Made a best guess. outside edge screws are dicey, with a lot of risk for stripping the heads or scratching the side of the plastic bumper trim. Brackets need revision. needs more adjustment space vertically (maxing out the outside edge upward and the the inner edge downward barely achieved "level"). Also, depth of bracket was insufficient, as lights sit a good 1/4" - 1/2" (0.5-1cm) recessed from bumper frame rather than sitting up flush to the rear side of the bumper frame. And this again is with slide positions maxed out.


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Randyg

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On my gen2 Taco I switched the OEM Fog/Driving Lights out with some super bright amber LEDs. Low and behold they actually made seeing in foggy conditions better. Another benefit I found is driving in packed-snow, ice and heavily washed-boarded roads. The lower, higher-contrast beam makes seeing ruts, ridges, and black ice easier. I want to replace the useless OEM lights on my 4G eventually but not looking forward to tearing off the whole front end to do it. So I am going to wait until I see enough reviews of what is good and what is bad. Plus perhaps other mods at the same time while I have it torn apart. Kudos to those that like to try things out and reporting results here.
 

Baltimore

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On my gen2 Taco I switched the OEM Fog/Driving Lights out with some super bright amber LEDs. Low and behold they actually made seeing in foggy conditions better. Another benefit I found is driving in packed-snow, ice and heavily washed-boarded roads. The lower, higher-contrast beam makes seeing ruts, ridges, and black ice easier. I want to replace the useless OEM lights on my 4G eventually but not looking forward to tearing off the whole front end to do it. So I am going to wait until I see enough reviews of what is good and what is bad. Plus perhaps other mods at the same time while I have it torn apart. Kudos to those that like to try things out and reporting results here.
If you allocate a half day (4-5h) to the task, you should have ample time. Diode Dynamics has a video for removing the front of the truck for their fog light installation. Personally, I would watch the combo of Rave Offroad's grille swap video + the DD fog swap video... both gloss over certain things, but different things. So the combo gives you a real sense of what is necessary. It's pretty straightforward comparatively.

summary-wise, you're basically:
Remove air dam
Loosen wheel wells and brake air intakes
disconnect wiring connections
unbolt face
unsnap each fender side
get a second set of hands and pop full truck face off
lay face down on a protected surface
remove parts from backside of face
swap fogs
reverse everything
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