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How many volts are coming from the auxiliary switch connectors? I have some hood scoop lights I'm apparently not getting enough power to?

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I am trying to use "connector A" - one of the ones in the engine bay to power some lights I mounted into the hood scoop. The lights, however, are not necessarily made for vehicles. I had some left over "permanent outdoor lights" that I used due to being able to completely control them with an app (ie dial in the color to match the ambers in the headlights perfectly, or change them to white, increase brightness, etc.). Due to these being lights not used in vehicles, there is a power bank they plug into, of which I cut the plug off and spliced onto the pigtail harness provided by Toyota.

... Now I know basic electrical things, and by that I mean pretty basic. I can rewire simple things, install light fixtures etc., so this may be something that's super dumb on my part and just won't work due to things beyond my simple understanding. But, I'm hoping there is a way to get enough power to these LEDs as they look pretty damn cool in the hood scoop and I took a lot of time producing a very clean install. Some of the info from these lights are below if that helps at all.

INPUT:1 00-240V~ 50/60Hz 1.8A
OUTPUT: 36.0V=-2.0A 72.0W (which the lights require to work)

The lights themselves require

I can tell it's the block not getting enough power as there is a light on it that won't turn on. Every connection I made along the route of installation was tested and everything worked until I moved the power source from the wall to the pigtail. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
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Pootklopp

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12 volts from the vehicle battery

It looks like your lights need 36v to run if I'm reading what you wrote correctly. The block is taking your home electrical (120v) and stepping out down to 36v.

Edit: not to mention AC to DC conversion the transformer is also doing.
 
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I was just reading through the manual again, and yep, that's my issue. I don't know how I missed that they were 12V, could have sworn I read 120V but that may have been the plug in the back.

So theoretically, I just need to up the 12V to 36V and could skip the power box? Or alternatively find a way to boost the 12V to 120V and still use the box (which has a special connector so that might actually be the only option)?
 

Pootklopp

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I was just reading through the manual again, and yep, that's my issue. I don't know how I missed that they were 12V, could have sworn I read 120V but that may have been the plug in the back.

So theoretically, I just need to up the 12V to 36V and could skip the power box? Or alternatively find a way to boost the 12V to 120V and still use the box (which has a special connector so that might actually be the only option)?
I would say your options are limited. Getting anything above 12v will be technical and difficult.

It sounds like you have the 120v inverter but that's not designed to run constantly and again will require a lot of effort to get working for your needs.

I would look into other options for the lights.
 

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StreeTaco

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You’ll want to find some different lights that will work at 12VDC
 
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Ended up trying a few different things. One was a 12v-120v inverter to plug into the auxiliary pigtail. Considered hiding the inverter in the engine bay in a weatherproof box but space is limited and figured the heat alone would not be great for it. So I decided to run into the cabin, which was pretty easy as there are unused grommet ports. So, I ran it into the cabin and still couldn’t find a convenient spot for the inverter close to the pigtail, so I scrapped that idea. Ended up tapping into the 120v in the center console, which was actually way easier than the original plan. So now the hood scoop lights turn on and off with the stock 120v switch.
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