PSA: Euro Global Techstream Plus WORKS on 2024 Tacoma 4th Gen

[Gurvy522]

Just wanted to share this detail with ya'll - after replacing my front fog trim on my '24 Limited from chrome to black, I also replaced the parking sensors to color match the trim piece (as the sensors on the chrome trim were silver).

I sadly found out that in doing this, it actually requires re-calibration and relearning of the sensor serial numbers in order for the PKA function to work.

So, as most of us do, we search online and find out this is a "dealer only function" - which really means this is something that can only be done via Techstream.

Now - I have a copy of Techstream 18, however..... 24+ model years require Toyota's new "Global Techstream Plus" - a new browser based version of Techstream that supersedes the old Techstream.

There are two ways to get this :

1. Pay the $70 for the 2-day "Professional Sub" via TIS

2. Buy the 1-day Euro license for 7 EUR on https://www.toyota-tech.eu/

I initially thought the Euro license would only work on Euro cars. But a little bit of research showed that NA cars were a selectable option even with the "Euro" software. So for 7 euro-bucks, figured I'd just take the gamble.

And my hunch was right! You can buy the Euro license and it DOES work on our new Tacomas. I was successfully able to calibrate my parking sensors - which requires measuring the angle on a flat surface and programming it in. They make a special tool for this.... but I literally just 3D printed a shell that goes around my Klein angle sensor to measure the angle of the sensors.

Now, as with all Techstream installations, you'll need a compatible MFC VIM J2534 cable. I used the Drewtech Mongoose, which is the one that Toyota recommends, however, I know some people either run the knock-off Chinese ones or the Tactrix Openport with the older versions of Techstream with no issues. I can't confirm if these will work with Global Techstream Plus, but I have a hunch they will.

More to come on other threads - discovered a lot of interesting information via GTS+ that I'll be sharing, in particular, with the Aux Trailer Camera & TRD Pro / Trailhunter grille camera angle settings.

Moral of the story - take that, stealerships. When I called my closest daelership, they wanted $400 for the service, claimed it took 2 hours. I got it done in... 4 minutes, not counting the actual research to getting there. And for a literal fraction of the price.

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[Ruissimo]

Quality post! Thank you for sharing!

 

[Sner]

Concerning that people think they can calibrate ADAS systems with makeshift equipment that in the end just gets the light to go off.

the truth is that special equipment is needed and it can take several hours to calibrate in very specific conditions, in special areas that many shops have had to construct to properly calibrate these systems.

scary some think its a DIY job, accidents can happen if they are not calibrated. After collisions, some insurance companies data log the ADAS calibration.

 

[Gurvy522]

Concerning that people think they can calibrate ADAS systems with makeshift equipment that in the end just gets the light to go off.

the truth is that special equipment is needed and it can take several hours to calibrate in very specific conditions, in special areas that many shops have had to construct to properly calibrate these systems.

scary some think its a DIY job, accidents can happen if they are not calibrated. After collisions, some insurance companies data log the ADAS calibration.

I'd agree with you on the ADAS piece. It's not a system I'd want to touch. Calibrating ADAS requires super fancy equipment.

The Park Assist system is completely separate from ADAS. It consists of the parking (ultrasonic) sensors. ADAS uses the radar in the bumper and the camera in front of the rearview mirror.

In previous years, you could just replace parking sensors willy nilly. But now they require "programming" if the serial number changes, requiring you to input the angle of the sensor when programming it. The tool I used is pretty much exactly what they use at Toyota to calculate this angle. It's done by first verifying the ground is flat (per Toyota, within 0.2 degrees on sides/back/front of the vehicle) and then measuring the angle of the sensor.

This is Toyota's "measuring device" - it's literally a digital angle gauge with an "attachment".

Anyways, point of my post was not to describe how to program the sensors. Just more or less how I got to it, and how others can get GTS+ if they desire to make repairs/changes/configurations to their vehicle - even for simple things like disabling the seat chime.

 

[Sner]

I'd agree with you on the ADAS piece. It's not a system I'd want to touch. Calibrating ADAS requires super fancy equipment.

The Park Assist system is completely separate from ADAS. It consists of the parking (ultrasonic) sensors. ADAS uses the radar in the bumper and the camera in front of the rearview mirror.

In previous years, you could just replace parking sensors willy nilly. But now they require "programming" if the serial number changes, requiring you to input the angle of the sensor when programming it. The tool I used is pretty much exactly what they use at Toyota to calculate this angle. It's done by first verifying the ground is flat (per Toyota, within 0.2 degrees on sides/back/front of the vehicle) and then measuring the angle of the sensor.

This is Toyota's "measuring device" - it's literally a digital angle gauge with an "attachment".

Anyways, point of my post was not to describe how to program the sensors. Just more or less how I got to it, and how others can get GTS+ if they desire to make repairs/changes/configurations to their vehicle - even for simple things like disabling the seat chime.

Fair enough - I’ve not ventured into Toyotas parking system calibration. The parking sensors, and cameras in some products work in tandem obviously in the front depending on the technology being used In the ASAS.

my comment was more to ensure that there is thought as to what is going on if you don’t know what you are getting into when you access attempt to DIY with this systems with no knowledge.

sounds like in your case you are well informed

 

[webshot]

What other functions can you modify with that? Disable Auto Start/Stop perhaps?

 

[Gurvy522]

What other functions can you modify with that? Disable Auto Start/Stop perhaps?

If you're talking about the "customizable features", there was a ton of stuff, but honestly I was focused on getting my parking sensors working I didn't really fiddle around it too much. I just made sure to disable the seatbelt chime, hah.

I could probably compile a list and post it here. I'd imagine it's a lot of the same stuff that's modifiable via 3rd party software such as Carista.

 

[Baltimore]

whoa - which Mongoose are you using? I see them running anywhere from $400 to $800+
This one? http://www.dashlogic.com/drewtech/drewtech_mongoose_pro_toyota

Then there's a lower cost "generic" ISO, or a $700+ bluetooth one

I was wondering if this was worth it for the MDM enablement + activating/changing some of the other minor bells and such... taking this route over buying a Carista device, but this might be 6x more expensive

 

[Gurvy522]

whoa - which Mongoose are you using? I see them running anywhere from $400 to $800+
This one? http://www.dashlogic.com/drewtech/drewtech_mongoose_pro_toyota

Then there's a lower cost "generic" ISO, or a $700+ bluetooth one

I was wondering if this was worth it for the MDM enablement + activating/changing some of the other minor bells and such... taking this route over buying a Carista device, but this might be 6x more expensive

I have the newer DrewTech Mongoose-Plus Toyota 3.

I've heard of people using the generic ones, but technically you're doing so at your own risk, as they're not Toyota approved. On the flipside, I haven't heard of people bricking their Toyotas with the generic adapters, albeit older generations.

 

[WKTJR1]

I have the newer DrewTech Mongoose-Plus Toyota 3.

I've heard of people using the generic ones, but technically you're doing so at your own risk, as they're not Toyota approved. On the flipside, I haven't heard of people bricking their Toyotas with the generic adapters, albeit older generations.

Why the hell are these so expensive?

 

[jdmz]

Can I use this to do a zero point calibration? Got a lift and my TSS has been disabled..

Edit: got it to connect with the cheap cable on amazon. However, I cannot find a way how to do the zero point calibration. On older toyotas it seems like a simple process to just reset data and recalibrate but I am not seeing any simple option in this version of techstream.

To calibrate the front radar you need a target, etc. I did not want to mess with that so hoping someone can figure this out before I try it.

 

[Gurvy522]

Can I use this to do a zero point calibration? Got a lift and my TSS has been disabled..

Edit: got it to connect with the cheap cable on amazon. However, I cannot find a way how to do the zero point calibration. On older toyotas it seems like a simple process to just reset data and recalibrate but I am not seeing any simple option in this version of techstream.

To calibrate the front radar you need a target, etc. I did not want to mess with that so hoping someone can figure this out before I try it.

What issue are you trying to solve ? If it's the ADAS system, I personally wouldn't mess with it. But it seems like from your other post it has to do with your USS sensors - which would be the clearance warning system.

Are you able to run a scan and post your DTCs here? We should be able to figure out what needs to be done via TIS.

 

[jdmz]

What issue are you trying to solve ? If it's the ADAS system, I personally wouldn't mess with it. But it seems like from your other post it has to do with your USS sensors - which would be the clearance warning system.

Are you able to run a scan and post your DTCs here? We should be able to figure out what needs to be done via TIS.

That's correct, it was showing the ICS which are clearance sensors. I deleted that message but still have the malfunction on the dash (see screen). How do I find dtcs? I could not find any codes.

 

[Gurvy522]

That's correct, it was showing the ICS which are clearance sensors. I deleted that message but still have the malfunction on the dash (see screen). How do I find dtcs? I could not find any codes.

I don't have access to the software anymore but there should be an option to run a full scan and pull all of the DTCs.

But if you're sure it's clearance warning just select it from the systems menu and it should show you any active DTCs.

 

[jdmz]

I don't have access to the software anymore but there should be an option to run a full scan and pull all of the DTCs.

But if you're sure it's clearance warning just select it from the systems menu and it should show you any active DTCs.

I ran a health check and showed 0 DTC. I then started looking at the (RoB) Vehicle Control History and noticed that at the same time I started getting the malfunctions after self performing alignment prior to going to the shop, it said "Zero Point Calibration of Steering Angle Sensor Malfunction". I started looking around the "EPB/Brake" system since that's where this RoB came from.

Finally I decided to risk it and resetted the memory in the EPB/Braking and thought I really screwed up because I got like 10 more malfunctions when I took it for a drive. I then performed a "calibration" in the EPB/Braking and this resolved all issues! Everything works as it should when I tested it. Looks like the calibration in the EPB/Braking does more than just braking. It also does steering, front radar level, and probably some other stuff.

It was nerve-wracking but worked out in the end. Thanks for your help!

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