saerandy
Active member
- First Name
- Randy
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2024
- Threads
- 6
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- 27
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- 38
- Location
- Richmond, VA
- Vehicle(s)
- 2024 SR5
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- #1
So yesterday being one of the last nice days before colder rainy or weather, I decided to finally do the initial oil change on my 2024 Tacoma. As many of you know the factory recommends a 10,000 mile oil change interval, but I had seen in a few videos used oil analysis at around 500 miles or so showing lots of wear materials and obviously some of the metals that are present in the engine (those settling in as the engine breaks in). First it's important to note that Toyota does not use a break-in oil. You will hear about break-in oil sometimes but they don't use it. It's just regular Toyota OEM engine oil. The second myth if you will is that Mobil 1 is the OEM Toyota motor oil. The OEM oil is NOT Mobil 1. They may use it in the service area when they do your oil change, however the actual quarts of OEM oil that you buy at this parts counter or elsewhere has a different formulation then Mobil 1. Specifically, the OEM Toyota oil has a much higher level of Moly in it. This is a anti-friction additive and Mobil 1 has 79 PPM of Moly and 102 of Boron while the OEM oil has 755 PPM of Molybdenum and 204 PPM of Boron -- A significant amount more.
Now, if you use any good quality 0W 20 oil - my personal favorite is the Costco Kirkland oil - you'll be totally fine and you won't void the warranty. However, this is an engine that I want to have last a long time so at least for the first few changes I will be using the actual Toyota oil. It's really not that much more expensive if you go up to the parts counter and ask them for a bit of a discount. While you're there, pick up the Toyota OEM oil filters.
Now, I'm sure all of you have done oil changes and it's pretty easy on this engine compared to others. There are a few things that are interesting about this one from the first time doing it. When you are draining the oil pan, it really does shoot out. The oil is relatively thin as you can imagine and I've changed oils on my other three Toyotas and pretty much have an expectation as to where the oil is gonna come out, but in this case it shot out and just stopped short of the passenger tire so be prepared by either raising your container closer to the drain bolt, or move your pan a little bit more to the side than you would think you will need. Next up as the oil was draining, I noticed that the crush washer was still on there at least for this first oil change it was incredibly difficult to get off. I had to use a pik and really pull on it and it took a good several minutes to get it off. When it did finally come off, there was blue residue around where it had stuck to the oil pan. Nothing big I just used some brake cleaner on a towel to wipe it off, but do expect if you're getting under there that you're going to have to most likely fight that crush washer - Here's the crush washers I've been using for years. Second, it's really nice that they have the "spigot" on the oil filter to guide away from the frame, however, when the flow starts to slow down it curves back and onto the cross member. I knew this was going to happen, some people will use a piece of cardboard, but I use a flexible funnel that I got on Amazon Here . Makes it really easy and it's not that expensive to have. Next up since the filters were installed during the engine manufacturing, it was on there pretty tight. Not as tight as I've experienced on some vehicles, but having a good set of oil filter wrenches, again available on Amazon Here , really helped a lot and made it easier. Speaking of filters, the OEM filter is made in Japan while the OEM filters they sell at the dealerships are made in Thailand Road. Probably not a big difference there.
Once you tightened everything back up, note the drain plug takes 30 foot pounds torque, and you're ready to fill it, I used this funnel that I use on all my Toyota vehicles - Here . It screws right in and makes it super easy too pour the oil in without getting it all over the place.
NOW FOR THE DEBRIS - I went ahead and opened up the spin on filter after changing the oil and luckily it's a nice bright sunny day this afternoon and I had good lighting and I went through it pleat by pleat. There was not one pleat that did not contain some sort of metal or sealant, or gasket sealer debris. This is to be expected and I'm sure that the filters are quality enough that they can sit around in there for 10,000 miles, however I'm super glad I got this stuff out. On the used oil analysis you'll see a lot of silicon, which is from the gaskets and other sealers that are used in the engine. There were a little bits of it in the filter. Caught it exactly as it should've been caught, however, at a much more microscopic level (wear materials), I was concerned about the level of metals and silicon circulating around in the oil so I'm actually super happy that I did this at 800 miles.
Well, I'm on the subject of that 10,000 mile interval, I often think about vehicles that are leased for 36 months. They might have three oil changes in that span of time actually, likely two at the dealer since it only covers two years, but then they go up as certified preowned. That's why it is very important. I think to be on top of the fluids from the very beginning.
Debris pics -- here are pics of the filter pleats. Hard to see the metal flakes but they're there. Also lots of pieces of RTV. Great that the filter caught them, however you would not like your filter to bypass or fail with this much stuff in there - every pleat had something in there. My recommendation is to NOT wait until 10,000 miles to do your initial change.
Now, if you use any good quality 0W 20 oil - my personal favorite is the Costco Kirkland oil - you'll be totally fine and you won't void the warranty. However, this is an engine that I want to have last a long time so at least for the first few changes I will be using the actual Toyota oil. It's really not that much more expensive if you go up to the parts counter and ask them for a bit of a discount. While you're there, pick up the Toyota OEM oil filters.
Now, I'm sure all of you have done oil changes and it's pretty easy on this engine compared to others. There are a few things that are interesting about this one from the first time doing it. When you are draining the oil pan, it really does shoot out. The oil is relatively thin as you can imagine and I've changed oils on my other three Toyotas and pretty much have an expectation as to where the oil is gonna come out, but in this case it shot out and just stopped short of the passenger tire so be prepared by either raising your container closer to the drain bolt, or move your pan a little bit more to the side than you would think you will need. Next up as the oil was draining, I noticed that the crush washer was still on there at least for this first oil change it was incredibly difficult to get off. I had to use a pik and really pull on it and it took a good several minutes to get it off. When it did finally come off, there was blue residue around where it had stuck to the oil pan. Nothing big I just used some brake cleaner on a towel to wipe it off, but do expect if you're getting under there that you're going to have to most likely fight that crush washer - Here's the crush washers I've been using for years. Second, it's really nice that they have the "spigot" on the oil filter to guide away from the frame, however, when the flow starts to slow down it curves back and onto the cross member. I knew this was going to happen, some people will use a piece of cardboard, but I use a flexible funnel that I got on Amazon Here . Makes it really easy and it's not that expensive to have. Next up since the filters were installed during the engine manufacturing, it was on there pretty tight. Not as tight as I've experienced on some vehicles, but having a good set of oil filter wrenches, again available on Amazon Here , really helped a lot and made it easier. Speaking of filters, the OEM filter is made in Japan while the OEM filters they sell at the dealerships are made in Thailand Road. Probably not a big difference there.
Once you tightened everything back up, note the drain plug takes 30 foot pounds torque, and you're ready to fill it, I used this funnel that I use on all my Toyota vehicles - Here . It screws right in and makes it super easy too pour the oil in without getting it all over the place.
NOW FOR THE DEBRIS - I went ahead and opened up the spin on filter after changing the oil and luckily it's a nice bright sunny day this afternoon and I had good lighting and I went through it pleat by pleat. There was not one pleat that did not contain some sort of metal or sealant, or gasket sealer debris. This is to be expected and I'm sure that the filters are quality enough that they can sit around in there for 10,000 miles, however I'm super glad I got this stuff out. On the used oil analysis you'll see a lot of silicon, which is from the gaskets and other sealers that are used in the engine. There were a little bits of it in the filter. Caught it exactly as it should've been caught, however, at a much more microscopic level (wear materials), I was concerned about the level of metals and silicon circulating around in the oil so I'm actually super happy that I did this at 800 miles.
Well, I'm on the subject of that 10,000 mile interval, I often think about vehicles that are leased for 36 months. They might have three oil changes in that span of time actually, likely two at the dealer since it only covers two years, but then they go up as certified preowned. That's why it is very important. I think to be on top of the fluids from the very beginning.
Debris pics -- here are pics of the filter pleats. Hard to see the metal flakes but they're there. Also lots of pieces of RTV. Great that the filter caught them, however you would not like your filter to bypass or fail with this much stuff in there - every pleat had something in there. My recommendation is to NOT wait until 10,000 miles to do your initial change.
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